Begin 30 feet right from Tales of Power at a left-facing corner. Climb easily past three bolts, then make very difficult moves into a shallow dihedral. Tips lieback up the dihedral (12a), gain an undercling and master a second crux (12c A0, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). This has steep, strenuous, thin, excellent rock all the way. Who will redpoint this beauty? I could not pull it off, but I'm just an old guy.
|By Lon Black|
Jun 29, 2003
My friend and her partner tried leading this one today thinking it was a 5.9. I ended up getting to the anchors by leading Tales of Power. Since we had a toprope setup, we figured "What the hell. Let's try it."What a tough but wonderful climb. Balance is needed in spots and strength in others. The tips liebacking and thin face sequences rocked. They could have only been better if the climb had been attempted more often, because a number of thin edges crumbled away as we tried to find footholds. Regardless, it was a fun one. I didn't climb it cleanly, but whoever does deserves a nice cold beer, and I'd be happy to buy.
|By Chris Weidner|
Jul 9, 2006
Red Limit is an excellent route, blending powerful moves into a delicate topout. I free climbed it on 7/6/06 at 12d. Mine is likely the first free ascent, though I can't be sure. A bit of brushing was required to reveal the micro edges that would stay put, but it is now quite clean and highly recommended. Great effort to Richard and Jessica for finding and bolting the line.
|By Stephen Nance|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0
This climb demands respect. Red Limit will reward technique and tension more so than finger strength. The lieback is the "easy part", though I found it scary to power lieback left on lead with the bolts to your right. Once you get to the mini-roof, it's all about bad feet and tension. Good beta will get you through the moves at around .12d. Be carefully up top above the crux as .11+ slab climbing awaits you. Excellent route.
|By Travis Blair|
Sep 21, 2012
Just sent today! Now where's my beer...?
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 12, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A0
This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.