While this short arete may have once been a low quality V2, some holds broke and now it's an overlooked V4 with a V8ish variation. Pull on to the arete using bad hands and feet and pop for the lip, then top it out. Exiting left is the easier version.
The V8 variation uses the arete for the left hand and poor crimps on the wall right of the arete to start. Dyno big with your right hand to a hidden jug and top it out.
Right face/arete of right warm-up boulder. Faces away from the trail.
BETA PHOTO: In an attempt to provide clarity about this route,...
|By Jeremiah Johnson|
From: Hershey PA
Dec 25, 2007
Not a great problem. After a move or two to get established, you can finish either left or right. Finishing left is considerably easier. To finish right, make a big move with bad feet to a jug.
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 11, 2010
This is listed as V2 in the guide book, why the considerable increase in the grade. Did the one broken hold make it that much harder?
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 14, 2014
rating: V3 6A
I'm going to be honest, this description is pretty confusing. I decided to give this some goes yesterday while I was warming up to see if I could figure out what's going on.
In Kemple's guide, he describes this problem as starting on 'Pop On Top' and moving right to the arete and up. I tried it this way. It seemed most natural to move right and use the undercling/sidepull rail feature with the right hand (rather than the arete). A somewhat awkward, high foot and a little pop for the top made this go fairly easily. Doing it this way felt around v3 (give or take).
I also tried the problem as described here (or at least my best guess as to what the description is trying to say). In this version, I started with my right hand on a pinch on the arete and my left hand on a small triangular pinch out left. I pulled off the ground, placed a high left heel and fell into a faint sloper sidepull with my left hand and then grabbed the lip with my right hand. A few more moves gains the top. Doing it this way also felt around v3 (give or take). I uploaded a photo of the starting holds and line of travel for this version.
So, I'm not sure whether or not a hold broke, or which description is correct, but the climb felt around v3 either way and reasonably good, quality wise. (Two stars) Hopefully this provides some clarity regarding the line and persuades some people to give one or both of the variations a go.
As for the 'v8' variation, I believe this is basically 'Shark Attack' and is probably somewhere in between those two suggested grades.