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Red Eye T 

Red Eye 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: (TR): A. Pon, 2002. FFA B Gillett,, 2003.
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2013

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Description 

This is a so-so climb that would be much improved with a good brushing. It would be a 2-star route if it got cleaned up. The moves are fun, particularly up top, but the name of the route is probably derived from the condition of the leader and belayer after getting some of the lichen in their eyes.

Start off on the far left end of the crag, up the slope just slightly. A left-facing flake with several horizontal cracks starts the line, which is lichen covered.

Start off on the flake, placing one piece behind it with a runner and then protecting with hand-sized cams in the horizontals. Step up and right onto some feet and put small stoppers into the seam when the flake runs out. Move up onto these and place a 2.5" cam in the flake up and left of the crack, for the crux moves (5.9). Place feet wisely, and use interesting hands to pop out to the left into solid hand jams and head on up to deep in-cuts and jug-handles to the top of the rock, protecting if you feel like you need more protection there (5.4).

The climb ends by a single bolt belay (grey camo hanger) or directional, just above.

Move over to climbers right to a rap station below Stress Fracture to retreat to the ground.

Location 

This is the left-most line on the lower section of Pilot Knob. It starts up a left-facing flake and works into a RP seam near an overlapping undercling flake to the left up high.

Protection 

A set of cams and nuts, including some small nuts (i.e. RPs).


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