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Red Eye is an extremely fun and popular route. It climbs the head wall just above Classic Crack (it can be approached by Classic Crack, Thai Stick, or the walk up approach) and passes through cool huecos, using powerful moves to gain a ledge--the crux. The anchors are on an obvious ledge up left.
The route can be continued up higher (though it is seldom done) by moving right from the anchors and up a blocky section towards Kashmir's first bolt. From here, stay right and climb the obvious dihedral and crack to the top. It is roughly 60 feet to the second anchor station. The rock is solid, but dirty, and the climbing is solid 5.10.
Red Eye is on the Red Wall, just above Classic Crack.
A climber approaching the Red Eye.
1st bulge is second pitch over Classic Crack 5.9+ ...
Rhys Schreck (age 9) cruising Red Eye.
Stacy on Kashmir
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
Jan 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This is easily combined with classic crack if you don't place too much pro early on.
From: Portland, OR
Feb 4, 2012
F.A. Monty Mayko I believe.
|By another Chad|
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I'm seeing a lot of 5.10b ratings given to Red Eye. I suspect the same people aren't climbing the second and third pitches! The third pitch in particular is quite hard even for the grade given in Portland Rock Climbs.
|By Vince Schreck|
Jul 19, 2013
Felt like really hard 5.10 to me, especially if you've just finished Classic Crack and are continuing on Red Eye. Cool route with a couple big moves.