Red Eclipse 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green, Travis Nolan, 2000 |
| Submitted By: | Kreighton Bieger on Mar 17, 2002 |
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Kreighton Bieger on Red Eclipse.
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Description Walking in to Cactus Cliff, after about five minutes, you will see Alexi's Climb, a short, bolted slab (five bolts) that looks very easy. This is a 5.5 that is the leftmost in a collection of moderate routes. Red Eclipse is the second route to the right of Alexi's Climb. The route is a steep slab that starts on a small shelf and follows a line of bolts up a not-quite-vertical face, left of a crack. If you use the crack at the crux, I don't think it's 10c/d, more like 10b. Move between decent pockets on marginal feet and the crux is near the top.
Protection 4 bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is n...
| We approached this point from the white scar down ...
| Unknown climber on Red Eclipse. Beautiful afternoo...
| Carl starting up Red Eclipse.
| Pushing through the crux to make that last clip.
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn Apr 12, 2002
| Of all the bolted boulder problems in this little alcove, this is the best. I found it quite enjoyable especially following the bolts absolutely straight up. Avoiding the crack definintly keeps the grade around 10d. |
By Stewart M. Green Dec 4, 2002
| First ascent by Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green and Travis Nolan in February, 2000 after a "red" lunar eclipse. I had a compound dislocation fracture of my ankle and tibia and fibula on this route in February 2002. My left foot skated off a small edge as I was getting ready to clip the anchors and I fell awkwardly sideways and my right heel smacked on a 3-inch-wide shelf as I fell past and that was it...ouch!!! Thanks to all the guys who carried me out and got me to the Canon City hospital. |
By Anonymous Coward Dec 4, 2002
| Wow! How far above the bolt were you? How far did you fall? |
By Larry Shaw Jul 17, 2004 rating: 5.10c
| Cool moves, went in the crack to the right at the top, not sure if that's on route. |
By Dean Cool From: Boulder, CO Aug 14, 2006
| Fun climb, 5.10c! All the holds are there, but most of them happen to be two fingers or so. There is a good rest area in the middle of the climb that allows you to rest those fingers and grab more chalk for those hot and slippery days. |
By Brandon Schirm From: colorado springs, co Sep 21, 2007
| WATCH OUT!!!!! The last time I was on this route the chains at the top were wearing out due to contacting the bolt. |
By Camille Kimball From: Manitou Springs, CO Feb 2, 2009
| Short and tough face! Crux after the 3rd bolt. |
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 10, 2010 rating: 5.10c
| Really fun, crimpy route but that last bolt is hard to clip. Make sure you're solid on the thin holds. |
By Bill Farrand Oct 31, 2011
| Note that in the Bob D'Antonio guidebook, this climb is listed as 5.9, and having just done it, it does seem to be a solid 5.10. |
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