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Red Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desperado S,TR 
Impossible Dream T 
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 
Mantel Route, The S,TR 
Mr. Cornflakes S 
Playground S 
Pregnant Guppy T 
Red Dwarf S,TR 
Red Red Whine S 
Red Slab S,TR 

Red Dwarf 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Dec 23, 2005

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Perin Blanchard at the start of Red Dwarf on 23 De...


Slab climbing with a few thin sections where good balance and steady feet are needed.

The first bolt is a good way up there (however, the climbing to the first bolt is easier than the rest of the climb). The rest of the protection is good.

Note that this route is not the same as Leave It To Beaver, which wanders farther right before coming back left again.

This route is at the right side of the bolted routes on the Red Slab. It has the highest first bolt of any of the Red Slab sport routes so it is fairly obvious where it starts.


5 bolts to double chain anchors. One of the chains is a little loose at the bolt. Easily top roped.

Photos of Red Dwarf Slideshow Add Photo
Gwen Blanchard, near the top of Red Dwarf, on 24 Sep 2005. Photo by Perin Blanchard.
Gwen Blanchard, near the top of Red Dwarf, on 24 S...
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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
May 30, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are plenty of opportunities to place gear before reaching the first bolt (~20 feet off the deck). However, I didn't bother placing any pro the second time around. The climbing is a lot more interesting above the first bolt.

By Eric Hardester
From: Provo, Utah
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Got a little lost on the route. Be sure to study the bolts to make sure you know which ones to go for. Tricky fun route.