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Menses Prow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing 
Abscessed Words to Climb 
After Dark 
Armies Of Metaphors 
B.O.S.S. Method, The 
Back for More 
Baroque Period, The 
Bat Crack 
Big Chill, The 
Chiba Chiba 
Cosmic Thing 
Dealin' Crack 
Dumb Waiter 
First Blood 
First Strike 
Flashback To Acid Beach 
Jumbo Pumping Love 
Lamontís Period  
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump 
Light Days 
Liquid Affair 
Lunch at the Y 
Metaphysical Fictions 
My What a Big Bulge 
No Passion for Fashion 
Original Route 
Period Epic 
Period Piece 
Pig Dictionary 
Prima Nocta  
Pueblo Gringos 
Red Dog 
Scratch and Claw 
Shelf's Worst Route 
Slender Fungus 
Smart Server 
Smokin' Crack 
Sudden Impact 
Thirteen Engines 
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith 
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine 
Weed n' Feed 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Dog 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,326
Submitted By: Sean O'Dell on May 21, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Happened to get a shot of his first real whipper o...


This excellent route is located on the west face of the California Ethics Pinacle (CEP on the pictures of the area). To get there, follow the sand gulch trail as described for Period Piece. CEP is the obvious detached tower of rock about 30 yards west of the eastern end of Menses Prow.

Everything about this route is 3 star, in my oppinion. Start on the lower right side of the west face on small, sharp pockets. Angle slightly left and negotiate a small overhang. The pro is all bomber, the climbing is aesthetic, and the views of the valley are outstanding. Probably the best route of its grade that I have done at Shelf. The only thing that could make it better is if it were longer.


4 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Red Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.
Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Ethics Pinnacle.  The climber on the right is near the top of Pueblo Gringos.
BETA PHOTO: Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Eth...
Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.
Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.
Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on <a href='/v/red-dog/105756586'>Red Dog</a>.
Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on [[Red ...
Red Dog
Red Dog
Julie Logan on the 5.9 Red Dog on the California Pinnacle, Mensus Area, Shelf Road.
Julie Logan on the 5.9 Red Dog on the California P...
Comments on Red Dog Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2002

uhhhh, 5.7? didn't inflation go out with the [Reagan Administration]??

By Sean O'Dell
Jul 27, 2002

Looks like we have the same problem on this route as we do on Bat Crack - different guide books (and different climbers, for that matter) give it entirely different ratings. The someit as 5.7, Knapp's book lists it at 5.9. Personally, I'll admit I thought it was soft for a 9, stout for a 7. I guess the moral of the story is that there is good deal of debate surrounding ratings in this area, so forget the numbers game, use the rating as a "ballpark," climb it yourself, and draw your own conclusions.

Dec 31, 2002

Just typing to let you know that yesterday, I typed Red Dog and Tucker's Faith in criss-cross; Red Dog is on the North-West facing wall, and Tucker's Faith is on the North-East side of the South-East facing California Pinnacle arÍte. I spaced out the fact that I criss-crossed the names after Fred Napp printed the fact that, the North-West facing (of the California Pinnacle) looks like a beer bottle... This is just to you.... not on-line....Thank you for not printing anything about... The Flame... because of liability; The very first time I did it, I on-sight, solo, flashed the last pitch-with no Bata and no rope; The Traditional climber's who watched and who heard about it, all said that NO PERSON HAD EVER ON-SIGHT, SOLO, FLASHED THAT PITCH WITHOUT A ROPE, AND WITH NO BATTA BEFORE... 1991?Take it easy...CLR

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 5, 2008

An interesting move or two but nothing spectacular. It's easier to stay right on the arete and stretch left to clip.

By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The anchor bolts are cold shuts.

The left one is worn about 1/3 through and needs to be replaced.