The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d envolving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts.
Climb to ledge system below large red tinted dihedral above Perilous Journeyet al. Follow crack system left of Perilous Journey to bolt line or climb bolt route right of Perilous Journey to the ledge system below the prized dihedral. The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d involving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts. The second section of the corner involves climbing out left under the roof via thin face climbing with marginal protection, finishing with a headwall crack.
By Jesse Huey Jan 31, 2013 rating: 5.13-7c+29IX+29E7 6c
As far as striking lines go on the Front Range, this is one of the most dramatic. The climb is almost exactly 40 meters and has 5 cruxes that are all 5.12 when done in one long pitch. Linking the two pitches is really the only way in my opinion, since the "stance" at the anchor is yes a no hands but in a stem that is on you from the start. Having climbed a lot of climbs similar to this style and grade, it is more difficult than you would expect.
Regarding the second pitch, I am certain that a key hold has broken which made me find a lower traverse 10 feet below the first bolt. It is considerably harder than what looks like was the original line at least in that spot. Expect 5.12b for that move and another 5.12a move right at the end. Done as one pitch, it doesn't get any better in Boulder. As of 1/31/13, there is now only one bolt, a single fixed pin, and one fixed nut on the first pitch and 3 bolts on the second pitch. A 70 gets you down, barely, if done in one, but you won't be able to get back into the wall if you lower.
Craig Luebben was the first person to link both pitches together for the proper full line. He broke a hold up high on the second pitch roof which made that pitch nearly as difficult as the first. Linking both pitches produces a solid 5.13.
Yo, Skinny Legs, Craig deserves credit for lots of great firsts, but this isn't one of them. I replaced the bolts and was the first to climb the whole thing in one pitch placing all the gear on lead. I broke a big hold on the second pitch during one attempt which does make the second pitch a little harder. Placing the gear on the go and doing it in a single pitch feels a lot like 5.13.