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Mickey Mouse Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asahi T,S 
Beagle's Ear T 
Boxcar Willie S 
Captain Beyond T 
Culp's Fault T 
Donít Panic It's Organic T 
Eagle's Bier T 
Fake Right, Go Left T 
Flakes T 
Green Dihedral T 
Hamburger Helper T 
Krystal Klyr T,TR 
Lifestream T,S 
Mausoleum T 
Mighty Mouse S 
Oblique Streak T 
Offset, The T,TR 
Parallel Journey T 
Perilous Journey TR 
Perversion T 
Red Dihedral T,S 
Shiva's Dance T 
Sidewinder T 
Simian's Way T 
Skink's Lip T,TR 
Stigmata T,S 
Three Mousketeers, The S 
Unnamed Dihedral T 
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 
Vulcans Don't Lie T 
Zambezi T 
Zambezi (??) T 
Zen Effects S 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FA: Kor, Mayrose, Dalke, 1964. FFA: Griffith, Doub, 1985
Season: Fall
Page Views: 2,394
Submitted By: bhoran on Jan 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BH on Red Dihedral. Photos: Bob Horan Collection.

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  • Description 

    The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d envolving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts.

    Location 

    Climb to ledge system below large red tinted dihedral above Perilous Journey et al. Follow crack system left of Perilous Journey to bolt line or climb bolt route right of Perilous Journey to the ledge system below the prized dihedral. The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d involving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts. The second section of the corner involves climbing out left under the roof via thin face climbing with marginal protection, finishing with a headwall crack.

    Protection 

    Small stopper, pins and bolts.


    Photos of Red Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
    Jessy Huey photo.
    Jessy Huey photo.
    Bob Horan stemming the Red Dihedral.
    Bob Horan stemming the Red Dihedral.
    A bit steep.
    A bit steep.
    Justen Sjong on Red Dihedral.
    Justen Sjong on Red Dihedral.
    Justen Sjong on Red Dihedral.
    Justen Sjong on Red Dihedral.
    A bit steep;
    A bit steep;
    Bob Horan free climbing the Red Dihedral.
    Bob Horan free climbing the Red Dihedral.
    Tommy Caldwell sends the full pitch his second try.
    Tommy Caldwell sends the full pitch his second try...
    Red Dihedral.
    Red Dihedral.

    Comments on Red Dihedral Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jesse Huey
    Jan 31, 2013
    rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    As far as striking lines go on the Front Range, this is one of the most dramatic. The climb is almost exactly 40 meters and has 5 cruxes that are all 5.12 when done in one long pitch. Linking the two pitches is really the only way in my opinion, since the "stance" at the anchor is yes a no hands but in a stem that is on you from the start. Having climbed a lot of climbs similar to this style and grade, it is more difficult than you would expect.

    Regarding the second pitch, I am certain that a key hold has broken which made me find a lower traverse 10 feet below the first bolt. It is considerably harder than what looks like was the original line at least in that spot. Expect 5.12b for that move and another 5.12a move right at the end. Done as one pitch, it doesn't get any better in Boulder. As of 1/31/13, there is now only one bolt, a single fixed pin, and one fixed nut on the first pitch and 3 bolts on the second pitch. A 70 gets you down, barely, if done in one, but you won't be able to get back into the wall if you lower.
    By skinny legs and all
    From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
    Apr 3, 2013

    Craig Luebben was the first person to link both pitches together for the proper full line. He broke a hold up high on the second pitch roof which made that pitch nearly as difficult as the first. Linking both pitches produces a solid 5.13.
    By topher donahue
    May 27, 2014

    Yo, Skinny Legs, Craig deserves credit for lots of great firsts, but this isn't one of them. I replaced the bolts and was the first to climb the whole thing in one pitch placing all the gear on lead. I broke a big hold on the second pitch during one attempt which does make the second pitch a little harder. Placing the gear on the go and doing it in a single pitch feels a lot like 5.13.