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 ADVANCED
Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 
Blast From The Past S 
Decaf S 
Disconnected S 
Espresso S 
Holey Moley S 
Raven, The S 
Red Devil S 
Should be Called Do What? S 
Tough Choices S 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Lounge S 
Will Power S 
You Don't Know Jack S 

Red Devil 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 1,279
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Will on the crux of "Red Devil".

Description 

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, from here reach the well chalked jug and a fingerlock, Crux is pulling the lip and standing up to an undercling. Above you'll find varied moves on crimpers and jugs. The route uses the first 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack").


Location 

In the middle of the roof left of Espresso (5.10c).


Protection 

Chain Anchors, 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack"). 3 hangers for draws.



Photos of Red Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Red Devil. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Red Devil.
Photo by Blitzo.
D.Burd sending Red Devil
D.Burd sending Red Devil
Red Devil. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Red Devil.
Photo by Blitzo.
Red Devil. <br />Photo by Blitzo
Red Devil.
Photo by Blitzo
Travis Kemp on Red Devil
Travis Kemp on Red Devil
Comments on Red Devil Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The powerful moves getting stood up above the roof are the crux but a sequence of thin edges higher can be tough if pumped. An area favorite, even if it's a little on the short side.

By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 19, 2006

Hah! I fell off those moves above the crux after the fourth clip and had to repeat the route the day after for a Redpoint. Agree that those moves are still plenty difficult.

By duh
Dec 27, 2006

Red Devil was the second sport route bolted at NJC.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

There is some trickery available on this rig, just before starting the crux that can let you recover a bit if you milk it (you'll figure it out). Turning the lip itself wasn't that bad once you figure out the sequence.