The Red Devil is the large Flatiron North of Der Zerkle. Like Der Zerkle, its East face is crossed horizontally by a substantial overhang. Above the overhang and close to the center of the face, a Chimney/trough starts and ends just before reaching the ledge for the final summit block. The Red Devil East face is, well, RED. And can be easily spotted from the Mesa trail.
For the most part, the rock is good although on the South (left side) of the red spot the rock is exfoliating some, so don't yank on them flakes too hard. The rock to the left of the chimney is great.
To reach the bottom of the East Face, follow the Mallory cave trail to Square Rock and start bushwacking to the North West from here. When you reach the red Devil you will notice the Unicorn, a small Flatiron leaning against the North side of the East face of Red Devil. The Unicorn will block you from going too far to the North.
To reach the South Face continue up the Mallory Cave trail past the original rock pitch to the cave (water groove) and until the trail switch backs two feet from the South face and you are under a blocky dihedral with 2 large trees some 30 feet above. If you continue up the trail you will wind up almost on top of the Red Devil and the descent blocks will be clearly visible.
Paradise Lost was approved as a new route by the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder OSMP in the spring of 2006. It climbs the beautiful South Face of the Red Devil, and starts two switchbacks below Hell Freezes Over. The climbing is steep and juggy on solid rock. Paradise Lost gets direct midday sun, so is most pleasant in spring and fall. Be aware of poison ivy at the base, which is easily avoided....[more]Browse More Classics in CO