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Red Devil

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Berserker 
East Face Right/Red Devil 
Hell Freezes Over 
Paradise Lost 
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It 
South Face 

Red Devil 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,800'
Lat, Long: 39.9749, -105.289 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,094
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Oct 25, 2001
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Red Devil (not my photo but a nice one nonetheless...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Red Devil is the large Flatiron North of Der Zerkle. Like Der Zerkle, its East face is crossed horizontally by a substantial overhang. Above the overhang and close to the center of the face, a Chimney/trough starts and ends just before reaching the ledge for the final summit block. The Red Devil East face is, well, RED. And can be easily spotted from the Mesa trail.

For the most part, the rock is good although on the South (left side) of the red spot the rock is exfoliating some, so don't yank on them flakes too hard. The rock to the left of the chimney is great.


Getting There 

To reach the bottom of the East Face, follow the Mallory cave trail to Square Rock and start bushwacking to the North West from here. When you reach the red Devil you will notice the Unicorn, a small Flatiron leaning against the North side of the East face of Red Devil. The Unicorn will block you from going too far to the North.

To reach the South Face continue up the Mallory Cave trail past the original rock pitch to the cave (water groove) and until the trail switch backs two feet from the South face and you are under a blocky dihedral with 2 large trees some 30 feet above. If you continue up the trail you will wind up almost on top of the Red Devil and the descent blocks will be clearly visible.


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Red Devil:
East Face Right/Red Devil   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches   
Paradise Lost   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Hell Freezes Over   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Browse More Classics in Red Devil

Featured Route For Red Devil
Mark Oveson starting the tricky and unprotected friction traverse on Berzerker - Red Devil Photo by George Bell

Berserker 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b CO : Flatirons : ... : Red Devil
This is a great route although it is not very protectable. To quote Gerry Roach, "protection may seem lacking when it is wanted the most". I would give it a VS, but both Roach and Rossiter gave it an S, and who am I to argue with them....If interested in doing the route without the death risk, you can climb the South Face route, rappel to the bottom of the chimney above the overhang and top rope the first two pitches from there (60 meter rope)....The rock is great, the moves are interesting and ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Red Devil Slideshow Add Photo
The view looking back towards "civilization".
The view looking back towards "civilization".
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