Immediately around the right arete of the giant Dirty Gerdie Block is a hand/finger crack.
Follow this short, positive crack until it ends, then make some cruxy exit moves around to the front of the block. Carefully move up the right side of the face through delicate smears and sloping horizontals to the fixed anchor atop the block.
The obvious crack just to the right of the right arete on the Dirty Gerdie block.
Small to medium gear. A blue Camalot is helpful once on the face.
I did this yesterday and went right where the crack peters out and up around a blocky section with no gear. This felt like 5.9 to me. There were holds out right, so that's where I went, then up and back left around to the face, then up to the tree. Four pieces is all you need. But which four? I'll let you figure that out......
I did the same thing, up the obvious crack (not using the arete) till it ends then moved right 2 feet to the holds, straight up to the arete and then move left around the corner. It's the natural thing to do when you're leading.
I climbed this today (my first gunks 9 lead). I went straight up the crack, headed right when the crack ended and then left and around the arete to finish on the face. Would recommend this short and straight forward climb to anyone breaking into the grade.
By paulmadry Aug 1, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
It is 5.9 --- if you escape quicker to left and climb face , 5.9 + if you stay on right longer