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 ADVANCED
Cardinal Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bard-Harrington Finish T 
Cardinal Sin T 
Cardinalidae T 
Crack Kingdom T 
Cucumbers T 
Passeri T 
Passeriformes T 
Prow, The T 
Red Bush T 
Regular Route T 
Shine or Whine T 
V8 Crack T 
West Face T 

Red Bush 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dean Hobbs, 1980s
Page Views: 1,353
Submitted By: fossana on Jun 13, 2011

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P2 of Red Bush

Description 

Red Bush is a fun (and more sustained) alternative to the West Face.

P1: 5.9 Climb the stout finger crack to a ledge.

P2: 5.7 Climb the offwidth passing 2 horizontals on your left. The third (easier) horizontal should end close to the W Face's P3 belay at the base of a short chimney. You may wish to break this pitch up to reduce rope drag.

P3: 5.8 Climb the short but slightly awkward offwidth/chimney. Move left up some easy, but loose, blocks passing a bolt to reach the shared rap anchors on a block that hangs over the W face.

DESCENT
Make 4 raps from the overhanging block. Note that the second rap station is far climber's left from the rap station fall line. The third rap station is ~10 ft below and climber's left of the second belay on the W Face. On the final rap finish uphill from the W Face start.

Location 

The route starts on top of the 4th class ledges on the W face of Cardinal Pinnacle to the right of Cucumbers and just to the left of the 5.6 (Regular Route) that climbs the left side of the small pinnacle that forms the right-hand side of Cardinal Pinnacle. As of June 2011 there were 2 stuck nuts at the start of P1.

Protection 

Gear to 3" (optional 4" for the chimney/offwidth on P3). Double-slings if you plan to do P2 in one pitch. P1 and P2 are gear belays.

70m or double 60m ropes


Photos of Red Bush Slideshow Add Photo
looking down P1 of Red Bush
looking down P1 of Red Bush
the P2 traverse
the P2 traverse

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