Red Bull and Vodka M11
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| Type: | Sport, Mixed, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | M11 [details] |
| FA: | Eric Malmgren |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | Daniel Battin on Dec 24, 2007 |
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You don't have to do this. There are feet in the r...
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Description First pitch: climb vertical seam to low angle, blocky corner under the roof. Jug through the roof (figure 4s and 9s not needed but can help) to the crux lip. There is a slung two bolt anchor up and to the right that can't be missed. Really fun pitch! Per Jason Nelson: For pitch 2/extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There's an anchor in the tree at the top of the Fang. Word on the street is the second pitch is M11. Seemed about right to me. This route is good fun. Thanks for bolting it, Eric!
Location This is immediately left of Amphibian.
Protection Draws.
M.L. on RB&V 9.29.08.
| M.L. attempting to pull the roof on RB&V. 9.29.08...
| Myself partway up RB&V on 9.29.08.
| Hmmmm....M11? I wonder if'n I should leave that ot...
| Notice the feet on the roof, this is not necessary...
| The seam is great for monopoints, and there are so...
| Jack pulling the upper moves.
| Jack figurefouring up high.
| Eric Malmgren on Red Bull.
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| Comments on Red Bull and Vodka |
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By Jason Nelson From: SLC, UT Sep 4, 2009
| For Pitch 2/Extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There's an anchor in the tree at the top of the Fang. Word on the street is the second pitch is M11. Seemed about right to me. This route is good fun. Thanks for bolting it, Eric! |
By Buster Jesik From: CO Jan 24, 2012
| Is there a consensus rating for just the first pitch? |
By J Antin From: Denver, CO Feb 24, 2012
| @Buster: M9 is word on the street. |
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