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New route climbed Dec of '03. Climbs right out of the middle of the arch. Climb is heads up, with many pitches of long fall potential. Only a few really "dangerous" pitches (whatever that means) but overall classic route. The headwall has a pitch of drilling, we were hoping the seam panned out to no avail. One of the steeper pitches in Zion for sure. Decent is best to try and find the top of Shunes Buttress and rap, we didn't and rapped off the back into a wicked slot canyon in a rain storm but that is for another story. Please feel free to manipulate any hole on the route. We were low on bolts and rivets so we did a lot of angle holes. But please leave your drill holstered while on lead, it is all there just try. Link to a story and topo of the route. climbingresoles.com/FlyBrian/?...
hike up under the arch and start up the obvious crack chimney thing.
2 sets nuts
3 ea TCU/Alien
2 ea .5-4 camalot
1 ea 4.5-5 camalot (old now #6)
8 1/2 angles (2 sawed)
2 ea LA
2 ea KB
Jul 11, 2010
Awesome route and photos...thanks for posting up. How was the rock quality above the roof?
Looks like the wildest wall in Zion!
By Kurt Burt
Jul 11, 2010
Rock is really good, there is a seam there that can be seen from the ground, but it is just a line, can't get a beak in it. The pitch after the drill pitch was really wild off the belay and then some wild free moves to the end. Very classic route.