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Red Arch Mountain
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Red Awaking 
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Red Awaking 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4

   
Type:  Aid, 8 pitches, Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4 [details]
FA: Flyn Brian McCray & Kurt "Burt" Arend
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,092
Submitted By: Kurt Burt on Jul 11, 2010

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Brian pulling the roof

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

New route climbed Dec of '03. Climbs right out of the middle of the arch. Climb is heads up, with many pitches of long fall potential. Only a few really "dangerous" pitches (whatever that means) but overall classic route. The headwall has a pitch of drilling, we were hoping the seam panned out to no avail. One of the steeper pitches in Zion for sure. Decent is best to try and find the top of Shunes Buttress and rap, we didn't and rapped off the back into a wicked slot canyon in a rain storm but that is for another story. Please feel free to manipulate any hole on the route. We were low on bolts and rivets so we did a lot of angle holes. But please leave your drill holstered while on lead, it is all there just try. Link to a story and topo of the route. climbingresoles.com/FlyBrian/?...

Location 

hike up under the arch and start up the obvious crack chimney thing.

Protection 

60m ropes
2 sets nuts
3 ea TCU/Alien
2 ea .5-4 camalot
1 ea 4.5-5 camalot (old now #6)
8 1/2 angles (2 sawed)
2 ea LA
2 ea KB
6 RURP
16 Beaks


Photos of Red Awaking Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the anchor right over the roof
Looking down at the anchor right over the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian starting up the steepness
Brian starting up the steepness
Rock Climbing Photo: Burt leading pitch 4
Burt leading pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Arch Mountain route goes right up the middle a...
Red Arch Mountain route goes right up the middle a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian belaying pitch 6
Brian belaying pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Burt leading pitch 4
Burt leading pitch 4

Comments on Red Awaking Add Comment
Show which comments
By bsmoot
Jul 11, 2010

Awesome route and photos...thanks for posting up. How was the rock quality above the roof?

Looks like the wildest wall in Zion!
By Kurt Burt
Jul 11, 2010

Rock is really good, there is a seam there that can be seen from the ground, but it is just a line, can't get a beak in it. The pitch after the drill pitch was really wild off the belay and then some wild free moves to the end. Very classic route.

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