Red Awaking  5.7 A4

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Type:  Aid, 8 pitches, Grade VI Consensus:  5.7 A4 [details] FA:  Flyn Brian McCray & Kurt "Burt" Arend New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Kurt Burt on Jul 11, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Red Arch Mountain route goes right up the middle a...

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

New route climbed Dec of '03. Climbs right out of the middle of the arch. Climb is heads up, with many pitches of long fall potential. Only a few really "dangerous" pitches (whatever that means) but overall classic route. The headwall has a pitch of drilling, we were hoping the seam panned out to no avail. One of the steeper pitches in Zion for sure. Decent is best to try and find the top of Shunes Buttress and rap, we didn't and rapped off the back into a wicked slot canyon in a rain storm but that is for another story. Please feel free to manipulate any hole on the route. We were low on bolts and rivets so we did a lot of angle holes. But please leave your drill holstered while on lead, it is all there just try. Link to a story and topo of the route. www.climbingresoles.com/FlyBrian/?p=408

Location 

hike up under the arch and start up the obvious crack chimney thing.

Protection 

60m ropes
2 sets nuts
3 ea TCU/Alien
2 ea .5-4 camalot
1 ea 4.5-5 camalot (old now #6)
8 1/2 angles (2 sawed)
2 ea LA
2 ea KB
6 RURP
16 Beaks

Photos of Red Awaking Slideshow

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Looking down at the anchor right over the roof	Brian belaying pitch 6	Burt leading pitch 4
Burt leading pitch 4	Brian pulling the roof	Brian starting up the steepness