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Rectum Roof 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FTR: John Vawter & Mark Thorpe 1973 FL: Werner Landry 1975.
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Jeffery on Aug 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Rectum Roof. Photo by Brent Coe. Nice job Brent!

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start by climbing up to a thin ledge then up past two bolts to a horizontal crack under a small roof. Traverse five feet left, using the horizontal crack till you reach a vertical crack that enters the roof overhead; this is the crux. Pull the roof and jam your way to the top till you reach a bolted anchor. This route should protect well, but the leader should be comfortable with the grade. A toprope can be set up on this route to work out the moves.

Location 

This climb is located on the Main Wall Center; Upper Tier Routes. Continue up past the Gallwas Crack to another ledge and gain purchase on top of a large boulder; should be able to see the two bolts at this point.

Protection 

This is a mixed lead that requires small gear up to three inches and also protects with two bolts. There are also bolted anchors at the top for rappelling and toproping. Double length slings will do the trick for a TR.


Photos of Rectum Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Action Photo! Me getting my butt kicked on top rope-solo.
Action Photo! Me getting my butt kicked on top rop...

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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 26, 2008

The bolted anchor is near, to climbers' left of a nice flat boulder that begs to be used as a seat. Walk up from The Blocks (way left).
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 23, 2009

A bolt was added at the start, so now there are 3 instead of the original 2. The original 1/4" first bolt was replaced probably around 1999 and moved ~6" left, making it much harder (more dangerous) to clip. In summer of 2009 somebody decided to add a bolt below the original first bolt.

I have led this route multiple times on the 2 bolts and can say that the perfect solution would be to move the first bolt back right to its original location and remove the new bolt below that. Although chopping the new first bolt is not out of the question, it would actually return the route to a state more dangerous than its original condition.

I'm just trying to keep a record of the history here, properly repairing this route will take some ambition.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 6, 2012

gear: three draws, then C4's: #1+QD at traverse, .4, .5, 1, 2. Maybe there was a .75 in there too?