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Rectalphobiac 
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Rectalphobiac 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,353
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 8, 2002
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Halfway up the climb, the beginning of the "slabby...
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Description 

This route begins below a large rock in the middle of the lower tier of climbing. A fun route that has an overhung section, some neato caves, and also a tough slab section at the top.

Falling prior to the first clip is really not a great idea, as the bounce into the glassy sand deck wouldn't be fun. The section after the 2nd bolt is runout, but simple and fun.

The crux is getting to the last bolt on a balancy slab.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 21, 2002

Aron forgot to mention that the climb "slabby crux" also involves a very slopey arete, and that if you fall before you clip the second bolt, you're in for a ~30 foot land fall, so don't do that. But like he mentioned, its easy climbing at this point.

By Hank Sato
Sep 11, 2002

This is really an ejoyable route. I felt this is mentally harder than Skill Saw Groumet (11D) for me. I brought a sling to garth hitch to the pillow to protectthe 2nd clip (or the 3rd clip? if you clip to the left side bolt near the first bolt). Though the crux is a slab section with arete, my arms were really pumped!