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Recommendations for Gunks 5.5's?
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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Nov 8, 2010
First morning at Indian Creek!!!

PUZMAN: Did you get out there yet and tick off some more classics?


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Nov 8, 2010

we might be working on those classics if the temps aren't warm enough for the harder stuff ;)


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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Nov 8, 2010
First morning at Indian Creek!!!

YES!


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By Puzman
Nov 10, 2010
Little finger

AntinJ wrote:
PUZMAN: Did you get out there yet and tick off some more classics?


Yeah, did Shockley's Without (a 5.5 PG in Williams). I may play hookey next week if a friend of mine can get out of work. Next up might be Jackie or Dennis...


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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Nov 10, 2010
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.

Puzman wrote:
Yeah, did Shockley's Without (a 5.5 PG in Williams). I may play hookey next week if a friend of mine can get out of work. Next up might be Jackie or Dennis...


I led Asphodel recently and thought it was a nice 5.5 with plenty of gear and great stances to place it from. I did not think it was hard for a 5, and I am just starting to lead 5's. There's one move that is a bit exposed, but has solid hands and feet. Best with doubles, though, for the rap. I was told the intermediate rap station is not very nice. My partner's doubles made for easy sailing to the ground in one rap, so I didn't verify that.


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Jul 31, 2013

I'm so excited to check this place out. I've been reading all the threads on gear suggestions (I haven't used my pink and red tricams for years). Any suggestions for the best moderates that may be less crowded for first time Arizona visitor coming to Gunks in late August. I hate to wait in line. Feels like I'm climbing in an outdoor gym waiting for popular moderates at Red Rocks and Tahquitz sometimes on the weekends. I'll obviously try to hit the easier Gray Dick 3 stars like Gelsa, Horseman, etc on at 7 am on first few days and then High E and Shockley's, Madamm G, and maybe even Limelight on last few days if I'm up to it after I really understand the Gunks sandbag rating factor. No need to repeat all the great suggestions in the thread already listed. Any under rated or less popular quality routes or suggestions to avoid the crowds of people like me that want to tick off the three star classics. I'm comfortable leading up to most 5.7 trad at other areas as long as there are no R or X runouts. If you're familiar with other areas I'm looking for Gunks routes similar in difficulty to Cat in the hat, Physical Graffiti, Birdland (Red Rocks), Left Ski Track (the original YDS 5.6), Fote Hog (Joshua Tree) or Holdless Horror (Tuoulumne). I've mostly climbed on granite slabs, friction, and vertical cracks/spitters which I know is not Gunks type climbing with horizontals, roofs, traverses, and vertical exposure with jugs. I'm also climbing with my girlfriend who has followed the routes listed above but doesn't like scary traverses (I'm not bringing half/double ropes on the plane). If anyone is willing to show us around the first day (route finding, raps, walk offs, etc). Speaking of raps and linking pitches is there any advantage to a 70 m over a 60 m rope? I'll buy the first few rounds afterwards at Bacchus or other local place of your choosing (any beta on cheap locals Gunks food and hotel suggestions appreciated). I'm planning on climbing Aug 27-29/30. Thanks for taking the time to read this exhaustive post. Final question, do I have to lead Shockley's naked? I loved reading about Dick Willaims and the Vulgarians v the Appies in Gray Dick. Reminds me of John Long and the Stonemasters while they were taking over Tahquitz and the Yosemite.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Jul 31, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Another plug for Rhododendron. Good climb and on the easy end of 5.6, in my opinion.

Asphodel is a good 5.5 with some good moves on a cool feature.

Don't miss out on Andrew; despite it's 5.4 rating, it is a cool route!!!!


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Jul 31, 2013

Do I need 2 ropes for rapping Asphodel?


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By Larry S
Jul 31, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

Walk over to Madam G's and rap with two ropes. Might involve a little downscramble onto the top of the buttress. See the description for the area - mountainproject.com/v/f-the-guides-wall-madame-gs/107051389


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By doligo
Jul 31, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

William Nelson wrote:
Any under rated or less popular quality routes or suggestions to avoid the crowds of people like me that want to tick off the three star classics.


Moonlight and Miss Bailey are perhaps the most overlooked 3-star climbs in the Gunks.

William Nelson wrote:
Speaking of raps and linking pitches is there any advantage to a 70 m over a 60 m rope? I'll buy the first few rounds afterwards at Bacchus or other local place of your choosing (any beta on cheap locals Gunks food and hotel suggestions appreciated).


70M is a must if you want to link up Son of Easy O, done that way is the best moderate pitch in the Gunks, IMHO.

Can I get a raincheck for a drink in Bacchus? Miss that place!


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Jul 31, 2013
Rumney

William Nelson wrote:
Do I need 2 ropes for rapping Asphodel?


No, but the second rap station is utter crud. If you have a 70m you can rap asphodel without needing the second station (70m reaches).


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By Gunkiemike
Jul 31, 2013

Larry suggested rapping Madame G's; you can do that with one 60m rope. A 70m cord isn't needed unless you're into bizarre linkups or off-beat raps, neither of which you'll be doing.

As for Shockley's naked...you did say your g/f is with you. ;-)

If you are climbing mid-week you'll be able to get on nearly any classic with minimal waiting.


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By MaraC
Jul 31, 2013
taking a break from climbing shoes before rapping off Arrow

Another fun link-up is P1 of Andrew to P3 of Hans Puss. That last pitch is fun, with some thoughtful moves for 5.5. Head left at the top and rap down Arrow.


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jul 31, 2013
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Any of the 5.4s.


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By kenr
Jul 31, 2013

Dennis P1 is not a good choice for people much shorter than 5ft6in.

Maria P1+P2 without P3 is nice. Traverse on P1 (if correctly take it low enough) is well-protected with cams and not that difficult anyway. The move up into the traverse is delicate (but can be well-protected for the follower).
One guidebook rates P2 as 6+ so I guess some people find it hard. But to me it felt like 5.
P3 is a great section of rock, but the crux move is way harder than anything on P1 or P2.

Ken


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By rogerbenton
Aug 1, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

+1 for Miss Bailey's. Love that route.
Hans's Puss, Wrist, V3, Madame G.


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By AML
From NJ
Aug 1, 2013
Easy Rider

William Nelson wrote:
I'm so excited to check this place out. I've been reading all the threads on gear suggestions (I haven't used my pink and red tricams for years). I hate to wait in line. Feels like I'm climbing in an outdoor gym waiting for popular moderates at Red Rocks and Tahquitz sometimes on the weekends. If anyone is willing to show us around the first day (route finding, raps, walk offs, etc). Speaking of raps and linking pitches is there any advantage to a 70 m over a 60 m rope? I'm planning on climbing Aug 27-29/30. Thanks for taking the time to read this exhaustive post.


I would love to show you around but I'll be working.
Climb during the week, no crowds. A 60m is fine. Try to use the bolted rap routes (shown in the guide book) when convenient. A few raps will leave you hanging unless you have doubles or a 70m.

doligo wrote:
70M is a must if you want to link up Son of Easy O, done that way is the best moderate pitch in the Gunks, IMHO.


60m is plenty.


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By AML
From NJ
Aug 1, 2013
Easy Rider

Puzman wrote:
I've recently lead Fingerlocks, Horseman, and Sixish, and would like some recommendations for "easier" 5.5 leads in the Trapps.


+1 Ursula, Arch, Middle Earth, Jackie, RMC, No Picnic, Double Chin


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By doligo
Aug 1, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

AML wrote:
60m is plenty.

70 is nice if you want to rap without the intermediate cluster-eff at the Easy O, IIRC...


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By GabeO
From Denver, CO
Aug 2, 2013

doligo wrote:
Moonlight and Miss Bailey are perhaps the most overlooked 3-star climbs in the Gunks.


I think you missed the part where he said he wanted to avoid traverses. Moonlight is a fantastic climb, one of the best at the grade, but that traverse is pretty mind-blowing, and is the crux.

So get on it forewarned.

GO


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Aug 2, 2013

GabeO wrote:
I think you missed the part where he said he wanted to avoid traverses. Moonlight is a fantastic climb, one of the best at the grade, but that traverse is pretty mind-blowing, and is the crux. So get on it forewarned. GO


hehe P2 traverse/roof on Wrist is pretty awesome too.. jugtastic but nicely exposed.


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By rogerbenton
Aug 2, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

wrist P2 is great.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Aug 2, 2013

Way upthread, someone mentioned Rhododendron...harder than you've requested, but basically unlimited gear from the ground to the chains (but bring a #3 C4 or equivalent). Would be a good place to push a little bit. In my book, if you did ok on the first pitch of Sixish, you'll be fine on Rhododendron.


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Sep 14, 2013

Just wanted to shout out and thank everyone for beta to plan my first Gunks trip. Amazing and Incredibly fun climbing. My vote for best moderate trad crag on the planet. I did some of the moderate classics Horseman, and High E and a few less "famous" Rhodedendron, Sixish, Arch (overhung 4" crack exit on last pitch imo 5.7+), Betty (fun, easy, steep), Minty (awesome 4 star second 5.4 pitch). Only one downside was even mid week there were as many people as I've ever seen at at Red Rocks, J Tree, Toulumne, and Tahquitz on the weekend. I'm jealous that you New Paltz locals have so many awesome moderate trad routes. I guess 75 miles from 10 million people is why it's so busy. I was conservative and climbed well below my level (no hanging or falls), but had unbelievable time. Next visit, I'll do Madame G (3rd in line), Shockley's (i'll b naked) and Maria. Don't think I'll get on Modern Times though (sandbag 5.8 overhung exit crux! wtf. I'd give it at least 5.10). Maybe CCK and Linelight. I didn't use my tri cams as much as I thought, but used my alien offsets and dmm offsets on every pitch. Recommend a revolver or two for major traverses (1st pitch High E to ledge) instead of lugging half ropes on the plane. I absolutely love the Gunks and can't wait to come back. Also, best food and beer by far was the Mountain Brauhaus (Yaeger Schnitzel, Sauerbraten, and Köstritzer Schwarzbier and awesome climbing pics) flipping amazing. Lastly, Rock and Snow has the best selection of gear I've ever seen. Stay out of this place if you're a gear freak and you don't want to spend money.


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Sep 14, 2013

Larry S wrote:
Walk over to Madam G's and rap with two ropes. Might involve a little downscramble onto the top of the buttress. See the description for the area - mountainproject.com/v/f-the-guides-wall-madame-gs/107051389

This rap was so fun. My gf yelled halfway down the hanging rap. This is so awesome.


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