Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Recommendation for Albuquerque.
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Brian Wiesner
From Prescott, Arizona
May 31, 2014
Avatar

Hey,

My GF and I are looking to do a little bit of easy toproping (5.7-5.9) in the Albuquerque area in a couple of weeks and are looking for recommendations.

We don't lead climb or have any trad gear yet, so we would need somewhere with either bolts or natural anchors/trees that we could get to the top of and set up.

Does such a place exist near Pagosa? We are willing to hike, but would obviously prefer shorter approaches. We will be there the 14-17 if anyone familiar with the area wants to join.

Thanks.


FLAG
By Forrest Wilcox
From Las Cruces, NM
Jun 1, 2014
me

go to the top of second coming on murella grande, the 5.10a splitter crack has bolts on top and you can probably top rope the 5.9 crack to the left off of the tree, both are great


FLAG
By Daniel B.
From ABQ, NM
Jun 1, 2014
Pulling over the lip on Major Raspberry (5.10d).

Not too much in ABQ proper but there are some good places ~1.5 hours away that fit the bill. There are several TR only routes at Box Canyon in Socorro, look for the Waterfall Wall (this area is getting very hot right now):

Box Canyon: Waterfall Wall

You could also hit up the Cattle Call Wall at Las Conchas as may of these routes offer walk up access (better temps, ~8000ft):

Las Conchas: Cattle Call Wall

Enjoy the trip!


FLAG
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jun 2, 2014
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

It depends on how you define Albuquerque area :-) I don't know about areas right outside of ABQ but if you're willing to drive 90 minutes north there are a lot of options for good TRing along White Rock Canyon. As others have mentioned Las Conchas in the Jemez has some opportunities.

Brian Wiesner wrote:
Does such a place exist near Pagosa?

Are you asking about Pagosa Springs, CO? If so, take a look at the Piedra River Lower West area for some top-rope options.


FLAG
By Brian Wiesner
From Prescott, Arizona
Jun 2, 2014
Avatar

Yes, I was talking about Pagosa Springs, CO.

By "ABQ Area," what came to mind initially was Sandia (I will be visiting my dad for father's day, and he lives at the base of that mountain in Placitas).
What about Palomas Peak? It looks good on MP, but its always hard to tell how difficult the approach is, etc. Have any of you been there?

Our mini road trip will be from Prescott (home) to:
1) ABQ, NM (4 days)
2) Pagosa Springs, CO (7 days)
3) Mesa Verde, CO (<1 day)
4) Page, AZ (1 day)
5) Zion/Bryce Canyon, UT (2 days)
6) Back home to PRC

I would happily accept advice for any of these places from those who are familiar.

P.S. for everyone: Thanks for the suggestions so far. They've been very helpful.


FLAG
By Brettro
From Albuquerque, NM
Jun 3, 2014

The Palomas approach is not easy or short, especially compared to others mentioned in this thread (like the 10' walk approach to the Cattle Call Wall at Las Conchas). It is also fairly exposed. However, the temps would be fairly mild right now.

If you're looking to maximize your time, I'd definitely recommend Las Conchas. Easy to find the climbs listed on MP, no approach time and the whole area is beautiful.


FLAG
By the schmuck
From Albuquerque, NM
Jun 3, 2014

Palomas will bake once in the sun, and it faces SW. Also, the tops of routes there are not terribly accessible. The only area that I can think of that has easy top ropes is maybe big block, which is shady and a short drive/approach from Abq.


FLAG
By Brian Wiesner
From Prescott, Arizona
Jun 3, 2014
Avatar

You guys are super helpful (sounds sarcastic, but its not).

That's disappointing about Palomas Peak, since we will be staying a 10-minute drive from it and 1.5 hours from anything else mentioned.

Cattle Call and Waterfall walls look awesome and right up our alley, and even with the long drive, they definitely look like good places for us to go if we can find the time.

Forrest Wilcox suggested Second Coming on Murella Grande, which I am now looking into, but it seems to be a giant mountain. How do you TR something which half a dozen pitches?

There seems to be quite a few options within White Rock Canyon. Does anyone have any favorites (that are accessible from the top)?

Jason Halladay: What kind of an approach should we plan for in the Piedra River Lower West area?


FLAG
 
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jun 4, 2014
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

If you head into the Sandias for Muralla Grande, it'll be a nice hike in the wilderness and you should expect some route-finding challenges and have the mindset that you're out on a hike with some potential climbing in the middle of th hike. Follow the directions on the Muralla Grande page to get to the summit of the formation. (The second paragraph under "Getting There" describes a right-hand turn to take you to the top of the formation.) From the top of the formation you'll just be TRing the last pitch of The Second Coming which is really the primary reason to climb that route--the final headwall is a beauty.

White Rock Canyon has many options and most all face east/southeast so arrive in the afternoon so you'll be in the shade. Otherwise you'll be roasting. The Overlook, Old New Place, New New Place, The Playground, Big Enchilada, The and Potrillo Cliffs all offer good TRing fun. The Old New Place and the New New Place have the highest concentration of "accessible from the top" bolt anchors for quick TR anchors. The other areas have "accessible from the top" bolt anchors or decent trees/blocks/cracks to build your own anchors. Potrillo Cliffs has many routes in the 5.7 to 5.9 range but faces south so you may want to avoid the area in summer.

Piedra River has a low key, nice hiking approach along the river. It'll take about 15 to 20 minutes to get to the TR routes of the lower west area. Wear shorts so you can splash in the river to cool off!


FLAG
By Paul Davidson
Jun 4, 2014

When did bolts show up on the top of 2nd coming?


FLAG
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jun 4, 2014
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Paul Davidson wrote:
When did bolts show up on the top of 2nd coming?

Are there bolts up there? I'm not aware of any. If it's not clear, if you go to TR the last pitch of Second Coming you'll be setting up your own anchor.


FLAG
By Forrest Wilcox
From Las Cruces, NM
Jun 4, 2014
me

there are bolts up there, directley above the 5.10 finger crack


FLAG
By George Perkins
From Los Alamos, NM
Jun 5, 2014
a

There have been bolts at the top of Second Coming's 5.10 finishes since at least Sept. 2010 (and may have been there in 2008, I'm not sure when I annotated the topo in my guidebook). No bolts on top of the 5.8 and 5.9.

I don't think I'd recommend the Second Coming headwall for the "easy top roping" scene it sounds like you're looking for. That's a lot of exposure up there, there are only 2 cracks within your grade range, and you have to lower in to climb out, which makes for committing TRing. Fun though.

If you go to any of the easier bolted sport climbing areas on a weekend, I think you'd have a good chance of being able to make friends with people who would be happy to leave up a toprope for you, assuming you can't access the anchors by scrambling around.


FLAG
By Brian Wiesner
From Prescott, Arizona
Jun 5, 2014
Avatar

Ya, I'm thinking Second Coming is out. Sounds fun, but it seems like we'd be screwed if it turned out I couldn't climb it. My GF is also still in the process of getting over her fear of heights. She's been doing great so far, but not quite to that level. Thanks for the info tho.

Potrillo Cliffs look like they have a west face that would be shady in the morning, but it looks like not all the routes have bolts. Are there either bolts or natural anchors available for all the routes that you know of (or at least up to 5.9)?

How are the approaches for New New Place and Potrillo Cliffs?

Jason: Thanks for the info on Pagosa. Really helped me out. Have you ever climbed Chimney Rock? Seems like I remember that rock being in Pagosa somewhere, but I didn't see it on MP.
My Pagosa house is actually on Blanco Basin road, and it looks like there's a crag near there. Have you ever checked it out or know anyone that has? >>Blanco Basin
Also, just saw you named a route "Superb Owl." Nicely done. Got the reference immediately.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.