A excellent long finger crack!
This climb follows the plumb line that Wafer Step (5.5) joins at the half-point of this wall.
Enjoy moderate moves until you reach a point where the crack squeezes down and won't accept fingers, then pull the crux face moves and enjoy the easier ground above.
left of wafer step in the talus at the obvious low angle finger crack.
small cams, wires
2 bolt anchor
Starting off before the crack thins.
|By Derek Doucet|
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm not sure what the OP means by a "long finger crack". Like so many routes on the island, this route is both of superb quality, and tragically short. As in perhaps 30' of climbing short. A one (really, really fun) move wonder, albeit one with impeccable rock, in a gorgeous setting. Absolutely worth climbing, but don't expect anything long or sustained.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 10, 2010
yes, very true about the "long" statement, perhaps a great top to bottom finger crack would be a better description since so many of the island's cracks are broken by ledges.
|By Zak Munro|
From: VT, Leadville CO
Jun 23, 2014
Best not fall at the crux moves, used nothing bigger than .75