Recluse 5.10d
| 1,973 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | L Cote D Arey11/4/68 FFA Henry Barber, Sept 1971 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Feb 28, 2007 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: The business section of Recluse...interesting beta...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Recluse is an awesome route. The moderate climbing is better than the crux, but the crux is a fun boulder problem in its own right.
The start is hard for the grade, period. Some have called it 5.11b. Others call it "solid" 5.10. After the first two or three moves, the locks and jams are bomber and you can cruise one of the best moderate cracks at the crag to the top. Move left at one point up high to join the finish of Bird's Nest.
Location To the right of Bird's Nest (5.9), you will see a thin finger crack up a short steep section of rock leading up to a beautiful and more moderate hand crack.
Protection Small gear down low, then standard hand crack gear to the top.
Unknown climber on a very hot day in August, 2007.
| | |
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 20, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| An interesting Top-rope variation goes out left before the mantle at the place where the super small crack splits off left. Follow the crack left then place a couple super small pieces (if leading, consider bringing your small steel triangle nuts (or borrowing them))
mantle on make-believe holds and let out a gasp of relief after the mantle. Continue up to anchors/tree. |
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Sep 17, 2007
| I believe you are reffering to "Failsafe," a line that breaks left off of "birds nest." I could be wrong, its been a while. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008
| Paul Ross used to say" a good intro to a hard 5.10 move", I would say a better intro to a 5.11 move. Tricky but good. Henry won a six pack doing the ffa of this.
Failsafe is the other route, a tough and scantily protected line |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009
| i heard about henry's win yesterday lol but i wanna try it on aid :) looks like a blast :) |
By Kayte Knower
Sep 10, 2009
| In keeping with so many NH finger cracks, this one packed a lot more punch than I expected from the ground. I'm not sure that I figured out the trick beta though. Definitely a fun line with great pro and nice movement. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| isn't it, great route that doesn't as much lead traffic as it should. Set that first nut and you can fall till you get the move, then it's like a .9 to the top. |
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.11-
| Totally agree with nhclimer above. I fell a good 7 or 8 times figuring out the first move, and after that it's much more moderate with all the gear you could ask for. My only complaint is the dirt slab to the anchor - this is a route that could benefit from a bolted anchor, but we all know how that story ends... |
|
RSS Feed
23 more...
Slideshow