|The North End
Recluse is an awesome route. The moderate climbing is better than the crux, but the crux is a fun boulder problem in its own right.
The start is hard for the grade, period. Some have called it 5.11b. Others call it "solid" 5.10. After the first two or three moves, the locks and jams are bomber and you can cruise one of the best moderate cracks at the crag to the top. Move left at one point up high to join the finish of Bird's Nest.
To the right of Bird's Nest (5.9), you will see a thin finger crack up a short steep section of rock leading up to a beautiful and more moderate hand crack.
Small gear down low, then standard hand crack gear to the top.
Unknown climber on a very hot day in August, 2007.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 20, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
An interesting Top-rope variation goes out left before the mantle at the place where the super small crack splits off left. Follow the crack left then place a couple super small pieces (if leading, consider bringing your small steel triangle nuts (or borrowing them))
mantle on make-believe holds and let out a gasp of relief after the mantle. Continue up to anchors/tree.
From: Concord, MA
Sep 17, 2007
I believe you are reffering to "Failsafe," a line that breaks left off of "birds nest." I could be wrong, its been a while.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008
Paul Ross used to say" a good intro to a hard 5.10 move", I would say a better intro to a 5.11 move. Tricky but good. Henry won a six pack doing the ffa of this.
Failsafe is the other route, a tough and scantily protected line
|By Mike Thompson|
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009
i heard about henry's win yesterday lol but i wanna try it on aid :) looks like a blast :)
|By Kayte Knower|
Sep 10, 2009
In keeping with so many NH finger cracks, this one packed a lot more punch than I expected from the ground. I'm not sure that I figured out the trick beta though. Definitely a fun line with great pro and nice movement.
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
isn't it, great route that doesn't as much lead traffic as it should. Set that first nut and you can fall till you get the move, then it's like a .9 to the top.
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Totally agree with nhclimer above. I fell a good 7 or 8 times figuring out the first move, and after that it's much more moderate with all the gear you could ask for. My only complaint is the dirt slab to the anchor - this is a route that could benefit from a bolted anchor, but we all know how that story ends...
From: Boston, MA
2 days ago
You can sink a small nut and #1 cam in to free yourself to reef on the crux moves all you want. Put your bouldering hat on for a few moves, and once you're in the crack above, the hard stuff is over. A little funkiness at the top out to the slab may surprise you, but nothing horrible.
Make like Henry Barber and friends and wager some beer on a send!