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Reckless Abandon 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Scott Gilliam on Oct 18, 2010
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Description 

Almost half traverse and half steep cranking, Reckless packs a wide variety of movement into about 130' of climbing (and quite a punch at the crux).

Start as for Nutsweat, Deathwish, and Bat Attack. Climb up and right past one bolt (1st crux) to a rest near the arÍte. After recovering, crank out and up to the deep hole. Milk this hole for a rest -- no-hands, if you dare -- and then gear up the crux. Fire the steep tricky sequence and begin stuffing limbs in the crack above. Sustained moderate climbing leads to the rap anchor near a small Huckleberry bush.

Belay from the top with a 60 m rope then rappel on one rope, or extend the anchor (at least 10') to lower off with a 60.


Location 

Starts right of Shadow Dance at the North End.


Protection 

Gear to 3" and one bolt. Long pants helpful.



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