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Reckless Abandon 

5.12b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Mike a the rest before the crux

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Description 

A fine route on the best sandstone at the lake. Awesome positioning over the water on perfect white sandstone that climbs like yosemite granite. Walk past all of the routes in the impressive coloseum and end up on a terrace that takes you to the start of the route. There are three routes here. Reckless is the furthest left of the three.

Climb up onto a ledge and try not to blow the first move or you'll end up in the drink. Clip a bolt and do a big move up to nice horizontals. Surf up and right to a nice leg bar and make moves straight up and eventually heading left.

The crux is at the 4th bolt and can be done a few different ways. After this cruise up nice terrain that varies from steep jugs and even some fngerlocks. Finish up in a nice left facing corner to a pair of cold shuts. Be careful while cleaning any of these three routes. There is a boulder that lies directly behind them and it can ruin your day if you get a bunk lower out.


Location 

This climb is the farthest climb to climber left from the ladders at "high tide" (when the lake is full)(April-September).


Protection 

Quickdraws



Photos of Reckless Abandon Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Umbel firing the first crux moves.

Kevin Umbel firing the first crux moves.

Michael Martin airing out a bit before firing the last bit of this climb's pump crux.

Michael Martin airing out a bit before firing the ...

Pulling the first Crux

Pulling the first Crux

First crux move.

First crux move.

Pulling on the nice horizontals before the "bulge"

Pulling on the nice horizontals before the "bulge"


Comments on Reckless Abandon Add Comment
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By Christopher Hill
From: Charlottesville, VA
Aug 20, 2009
rating: 5.12b

When the water's up, be sure to walk a good ways back towards the main cave when you pull your rope, or you'll be wringing it out for the next few hours.

By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b

Don't traverse wide left to avoid the crux or the grade is considerably lower.

By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b

Agreed on the left traverse being off. If you ever find yourself having to flick your rope around the arete, then you didn't do the crux.

This is the only small thing that kind of takes away from this ultra-classic route.

By sycamore
Jun 1, 2012

I can only assume that the downgrading in the newest guide (12a) was due to the preponderance of people cheating the crux. If you climb it straight it's a solid b. At least compared to other a's at the NRG.