| The Colosseum |
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Reckless Abandon 5.12b
| 3,588 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard |
| Submitted By: | chad umbel on May 26, 2007 |
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Mike a the rest before the crux
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Description A fine route on the best sandstone at the lake. Awesome positioning over the water on perfect white sandstone that climbs like yosemite granite. Walk past all of the routes in the impressive coloseum and end up on a terrace that takes you to the start of the route. There are three routes here. Reckless is the furthest left of the three. Climb up onto a ledge and try not to blow the first move or you'll end up in the drink. Clip a bolt and do a big move up to nice horizontals. Surf up and right to a nice leg bar and make moves straight up and eventually heading left. The crux is at the 4th bolt and can be done a few different ways. After this cruise up nice terrain that varies from steep jugs and even some fngerlocks. Finish up in a nice left facing corner to a pair of cold shuts. Be careful while cleaning any of these three routes. There is a boulder that lies directly behind them and it can ruin your day if you get a bunk lower out.
Location This climb is the farthest climb to climber left from the ladders at "high tide" (when the lake is full)(April-September).
Protection Quickdraws
Kevin Umbel firing the first crux moves.
| Michael Martin airing out a bit before firing the ...
| Pulling the first Crux
| First crux move.
| Pulling on the nice horizontals before the "bulge"
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| Comments on Reckless Abandon |
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By Christopher Hill From: Charlottesville, VA Aug 20, 2009 rating: 5.12b
| When the water's up, be sure to walk a good ways back towards the main cave when you pull your rope, or you'll be wringing it out for the next few hours. |
By Will Anglin From: Sykesville, MD Jul 20, 2011 rating: 5.12a/b
| Don't traverse wide left to avoid the crux or the grade is considerably lower. |
By camhead From: The Old Northwest May 29, 2012 rating: 5.12a/b
| Agreed on the left traverse being off. If you ever find yourself having to flick your rope around the arete, then you didn't do the crux. This is the only small thing that kind of takes away from this ultra-classic route. |
By sycamore Jun 1, 2012
| I can only assume that the downgrading in the newest guide (12a) was due to the preponderance of people cheating the crux. If you climb it straight it's a solid b. At least compared to other a's at the NRG. |
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