I would like to start a discussion on rebolting Point Dume Malibu Beach, SoCal.. The bolts there are all very old and rusty. It is only a matter of time when they all start popping off with climbers depending on them.

Landing in soft sand is still a hard ground fall.... I am willing to donate my time and some of the funds to get this done. I am looking for others who would be interested in this project and helping out or people interested in doing it with my help....

Thanks in advance,
Tozan

I'm sure you are already aware, but Fixe manufactures a selection of marine grade hardware.
fixeusa.com/marine-grade_hardware.htm

A parallel thread is going on right now Sport Anchors on Hard Trad Routes - Bolt Replacement.

I would recommend Powers hardware. They make 316 stainless (marine grade) hardware. try www.fastenmsc.com.

The area looks kind of chossy, use big bolts, maybe glue-ins.

Post up a photo of the bolts. Many are removable. Probably more easily in soft rock which gives you an advantage.

I've been doing some replacement down in San Diego. I'd be willing to help out be it some advice on how to get started or driving up there for a day if needed.

good on ya for replacing those bolts. i was out there a few weeks ago doing some leads. i liked the mental advantage of clipping in, but i had no real faith in those bolts holding a lead fall. great place to climb though!

Here are some photos of the bolts. The Rock is pretty hard so I don't think glue ins are the best choice.

As you can see they are in very bad shape


I am not sure the anchors on the wall for top roping are a whole lot stronger although they are used every weekend, be sure to use proper equalization with them.

Nasty. You might be able to pull those or they may break in the process. I might be able to get some ASCA hardware and help you out. How many are you planning to replace? The TR anchors might be priority #1 even if they are only half as bad as that.

Those Petzl hangers are a true testament to the durablity of Stainless.

PM me if you are interested in some help with this.

I would be happy to work with you on this project.

Well good on you then. The hangers look OK from the pics, the bolts look like toaste.
How many routes have lead bolts on them now? And how long have they been in service? Its been since 91-92 or so, there was one route with good/new bolts hangers. The others were just absolutely rusted out. I was excited to find the one route, as we were expecting to have to TR.
Thanks Again. Don

I'm wondering how much of the corrosion shown in the photograph is galvanic in nature? It would be interesting to see how progressively corroded the buried part of the bolt is.

Anyway, do not mix metals in a seawater immersion environment - if you do replace the bolts use similar metals, in this case A-316 marine grade stainless steel, hanger and bolt.

it's been addressed but the person to get into contact with is either Mike Flood or Dave Katz.

Pulling bolts out of Dume won't be easy and probably will mean that you'll have to relocate the new bolt.

This won't be *that* hard. You guys need some tuning forks and a crowbar. The bolts will either come out or break off after a good beating on the forks. For the record I offered to help on this multiple times but it seems nobody was really motivated to actually get this done. Since I've never even been there before I don't have the motivation to do this solo.

the original bolts can only be replaced. the added bolts (which were added in the eighties) will be pulled then erased. before anything I'd have to get into contact with Katz.

Dave Katz and Mike Flood are the F.A's in 1978.

getting high in L.A by David Katz is the original guide book that will let you in on how the arete route was originally put up.

anyway I'm not up for mess'n with somebody's bolt war until Kat'z is informed on what he wants. I can't take this up right now until further time
Thank-you!

Cheer's have nice Sierra Nevada for me.