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Rebolting Development 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: D. Wert, Mike Kaeser, and Greg Bender, October 1971
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,553
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Here's a page from my 1985 Vogel Guidebook for thi...

Description 

This is a quality three pitch face route. Pitch 1 (5.10D) has a long runout above the second bolt, with ground fall potential. There is a 15 foot runout for the crux move on the second pitch, unless you can stop half way through the move to clip a bolt.

Protection 

bolts plus a few small to medium pieces of gear


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 23, 2015
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

An area classic, but you better be solid at the grade before trying this one on lead. Bolted anchors are now atop every pitch making it possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope. Quickdraws are the only gear needed for this route.

Rated 5.11b in the current guidebook.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Years ago, on my first attempt I took a long fall on the second pitch trying to clip the bolt at the crux - had a sporty belay and ended up practically back at the anchors! Cracked a couple of ribs with my harness belt.
By Sims
From: Centennial
Nov 11, 2007

May 78 Followed Eric P1&2 Lead P3. Thought it was the hardest 5.10 I would ever do. What a noob I had holes in the toes of my EB's and was trying to wear them on the wrong feet. Eric yelled down just put your shoes on the right feet. Doh
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

I led all 3 pitches back in 80's it was one of my early 5.11 climbs and I remember the flying clip well,no falls but this climb screwed me up for bit after, didn't think I was ready for routes 5.11 or above if the pro was going to be like this.Never could figure out what he was standing on when he was drilling that bolt hole?
By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Darrell and I had it worked out so the belayer could take a quick run down the hill if you took a fall trying for the third bolt. Scary up on second but felt relieved not to have gound fall looming...
By Brandon R.
May 19, 2008

I only TR'ed the first two pitches in one long pitch from the top. I think this route is much more sustained, and the crux harder, than Valhalla. The third bolt was looking a little old and should probably be replaced considering how vital it is. An amazing route though.
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 9, 2008

The third bolt is 3/8" and it should still be adequate for awhile. Unfortunately, it was not stainless and consequently it appears older than it is. When it does get replaced that would be a great spot for a stainless 1/2" bolt, given it's crucial location.

Another extra value combining of pitches can be done on this route. For a little extra challenge combine the first two pitches as a single pitch lead. Skip the 4th bolt on the first pitch (or unclip it after doing the move, or simply use a very long runner) to avoid bad rope drag when doing the climbing on the crux sections of the second pitch. Use a 60m or 70m rope. A 165' rope may reach if you keep it running straight enough.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Feb 7, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

11a tops in my opinion but the psychological weight added a few pounds to my 154# frame when I led this route. I was told some fellow had just broken a leg leading P-2...you know where.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

You just succeeded in freaking me out. I was thinking "why aren't there any photos posted? Maybe I'll go back and take a few"....never mind.
By dnaiscool
Apr 12, 2015

Greg Bender, part of the FA team, was a real burly dude who was funny as hell. I was never in his circle of friends (I was about ten years younger), but I have one distinct memory of him pulling moves on the back of Rock One at Stoney Point, getting slandered by his posse while balancing a full beer can on his head as he climbed. That was when chalk was a white cube you left on the ground, and hated it when someone stepped on it....ca. 1970-1.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 17, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Not sure where everyone is getting 11a from. If it is, then it's by far the hardest 11a I've climbed at the cliff. I found it much harder than Valhalla, The Man Who Fell to Earth, Etude, etc. Are people traversing left to the knob at the crux and bypassing the hardest part?
By Alex Shainman
Nov 24, 2015

I just did this route for my first time a couple days ago. It's an interesting and varied line with cool pockets and unique moves but on sometimes flakey rock and with lots of excitement! The first pitch is intense! It blew my mind for sure considering the year of the FA, comparisons to other similar graded routes of the same year and of course and as always the footwear! I read the preceding comments and even though I went straight up at the crux I was also asking myself how they drilled that bolt as in what did that stance look like!?!? I was also thinking, if I was doing the FA I most likely would've instinctually moved left (easier variation) to those obvious pockets and chicken heads which follow the logical weakness...Wild! For the first pitch, I had my girlfriend assume the "Edwin Moses belay stance" (as coined by a departed slab master friend of mine) and be ready to sprint away from the rock if I pitched!

Anyways, the reason I'm posting is I have some curiosities and questions for anyone who knows the history here...

What does the name Rebolting Developement mean??? How did the route get that name?

I found myself clipping a bolt and contemplating the drill stance and wondering how super tall the guy was but then I saw a chopped 1/4" stud a few inches below the current bolt. When this route was "re-bolted" with upgrades, the new bolts were placed higher than the FA bolts originally were? Also, on pitch 1, I thought it was odd to see a chopped 1/4" stud between the ground and the current first bolt. What's the story with that one?

Thanks in advance for the history answers and happy climbing!
By Darrell Hensel
Dec 4, 2015

Not having put the route up I can only surmise on the meaning of the name. Seems like it could be a play on words (revolting development) while at the same time alluding to the future need relative to the horrendous spinner bolt they drilled on pitch two (3rd bolt.) Then again, I may be totally off base with my SWAG(s) about the name.

That bolt was really bad, only half way in and then, to top it off, it had a funky old aluminum hanger. Given the shoes of the day I guess it isn't all that surprising they gave up halfway through and just kept going. Regardless, pretty impressive bolt for the day.

You used to get to pull the moves into the stance, clip that piece of garbage, and then run for the 4th. It almost felt like you were going from the 2nd all the way to the 4th because the 3rd was so bad you didn't even want to think about falling on it. We did watch a friend take a good sized fall onto it once, when he came off we thought for sure the bolt was going to rip. The fall catch pulled the hanger all the way out to the end of bolt, creating a nasty torque on the half drilled bolt. Still surprised that thing didn't fail.

The stance for the 3rd bolt on P2 used to be a little better than it is now. Part of the edge broke off late 70's/ early 80's. Not enough to make it all that much harder, but it has changed a bit.

I don't know about the chopped studs. The one on the first pitch has been there forever and I don't know anyone who has a clue what the story behind it is. I did the original replacement of bolts, upgrading to 3/8 and I'm pretty sure I drilled in the same holes. I think there has been some replacement following mine. Who knows. I still have the original P2 crux bolt as well as the original Valhalla crux bolt, the spinner off Caliente, and a few other notable ones - one of the perks of doing replacement work I guess. Since I have the bolt I'm sure I pulled the original.

Certainly a great classic route. Given when and how it was done it really stands out. I'd have to say it was one of my favorite Suicide routes, enough so that I did it a ton (or two) of times.
By Alex Shainman
Dec 23, 2015

Thanks for the responses Darrell, I enjoyed the read!

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