Rebel Yell 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Groth or Bechlar |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006 |
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Mike Gasch up high on Rebel Yell. Straight no Cha...
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Description A classic oldschool lead origanlly done with only the two SMC bolts and gear. Dave added a bolt higher up which makes the route safe enough. Start up ledges towards a seam to a small overhang. Crimp past the overhang on the right and work into the scooped out face on right never straying too far from the arete. Move left at the glue in ring bolt around the corner into high crack to finish on the left of the arete. Good moves throughout and some decent exposure as well.
Location Right side of the Y-Crack wall, aka- the Whiskey wall, aka the Meter wall.
Protection An orange Metolius tricam fits well in the lowest gear spot. A blue Black Diamond junior is bomber in the second gear spot below the overhang. Three bolts take you up to the point where you turn the arete to the left side. I had a nice yellow Camalot up here though some smaller ones would work just a bit lower.
Rhoads on TR.
| Rhoads sticking the lower crux.
| Rhoads "au naturel".
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By Trad Nanny Apr 19, 2010 rating: 5.12-
| I finished right of the arete and found it solid and fun. I will come back to lead it for sure. |
By Trad Nanny Apr 22, 2010 rating: 5.12-
| With the invent of micro gear this climb now goes "au naturel" with an easy "R" rating. A run out after the physical crux runs up the slab to a bomber #2 Metolious Cam in a slot. Long live trad climbing! |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Apr 23, 2010
| Good to know! Nice thx Nick. I was eying this up a few weeks ago. Looks like I'll have to get on it soon! |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 23, 2010
| "Easy 'R' rating"? What does that mean? |
By Trad Nanny Apr 23, 2010 rating: 5.12-
| "Easy R" because it's run out pretty good but the climbing in that section is the easiest with bomber pro below you. |
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