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Angel Food Wall
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Rebel Within 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Hogan, Scott Massey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: smassey on Oct 31, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: This is the route from the top of the class 4 down...

Description 

Nice crack. Bulgy thin hands start to easier finish. The lefthand finish is better than the bushy chimney. A little grungy rock at the start, but quite fun overall.

Location 

First, climb Purblind Pillar. Then, instead of following the standard descent gully (northern-most), veer into the gully to skier's right. Downclimb a cl4 chimney/slab past rap slings around a block. Look across the gully. The left crack on the small buttress in front of you is the route. Climb it. Feel free to continue cleaning the start, as well.
If you bothered to bring two ropes, in theory you could just rap the route. We rapped off the backside about 50', then scrambled down and left to a somewhat exposed rap off a scrub oak. A 60m rope just makes it. Slings and rings on both trees.

Protection 

Standard rack to #4. Tree anchor at top.


Photos of Rebel Within Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin tapping into his inner rebel.
Kevin tapping into his inner rebel.

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