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Real Men of Genius 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nate Adams and Tod Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Wow!

This is one of the best 11c sport routes I've ever done with wild sequences on very interesting stone.

This line starts just right (about 8 feet) of the prominent dihedral where The Stranger is located.

4 crux sections with 11ish moves await above. Start directly under the bolt to get the first hard move, a slab maneuver with tricky feet. You can also start a bit easier (10ish) by starting slightly right and then leaning left to clip.

The next difficulty is encountered at the third bolt - thin feet and hands to gain a jug.

Now for the real fun and the real crux - around bolt 5 you hit a steep roof with an extremely wild and somewhat dynamic sequence(Hint - heel hook left). Burl on through to a good rest under a massive huecoed roof.

From here, climb out the roof almost horizontally for about 20 feet on huge huecoes. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. The final crux is exiting this roof - pumpy but juggy.

It shares an anchor with The Stranger.

This has a beautiful setting and great crux sequences - plus unique stone and well-considered bolting - 3 stars for sure.

Good job by Tod and Nate.

Protection 

About 14 bolts to anchors - use a 60m cord.


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By Tod Anderson
Jan 27, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

It is important to be discrete when accessing the Wild West/West Bank or Mickey Mouse from the Plainview area. First, don't park at the Plainview railroad crossing. This is because it is a lot more obvious to sensitive residents that you are in the area and painfully obvious that you are walking on the tracks. It is much better to park a couple of hundred yards below the crossing on the last left hand switchback and walk due west through the Open Space to access the tracks beyond the maintenance yard and out of sight. It's also less obvious that you're climbing as a lot of people come to this area to walk their dogs along the roadway, etc.

Second, don't walk through the tunnel to get to the West Bank, Ridge One, etc. A well marked trail leads around the tunnel and it only takes about five minutes more than walking through the tunnel. This track has a lot more traffic than in years past with sometimes several trains per hour. There have been a lot of problems here before, so keep a low profile.

Also, the route poster was not paid nor compensated for his endorsement of this route.
By Robbie the Dog
Apr 8, 2006

This route is pretty fun, but the above description doesn't really describe the questionable nature of the rock in places, especially at the crux at bolt 5. The undercling/enormous flake you're yarding (and presumably heel-hooking on) is "really" hollow. Apparently, it's solid, but I had to hang there a bit before I trusted it. It's big, and it coming off would be Bad for you and those below. I ended up going right so I didn't have to pull really hard on it.

Also, the huecoed upper roof is indeed fun, but gritty--a couple of feet ground off when I moved on them. Your belayer should be aware.
By Henry Lester
Nov 19, 2007

The flake at the overhang is quite hollow, and the route is too close to the Fornicator which is the natural line.
By Joe Collins
Nov 22, 2008

This route feels really forced. It's too close to the far superior Fornicator, and the bolts on the crumbly finish guide you on a pretty contrived path. The block at the crux is an accident waiting to happen. You have to yard on it pretty hard, and it was noticibly shifting/flexing. The developers may want to consider removing the bolts through this section so that it follows the crux part of Fornicator.
By Swavek Gaik
From: Superior, CO
Mar 13, 2010

It's a great route with a variety of different types of moves. Did not feel squeezed to me. Yes, the flake at crux sounds hollow but it was solid even with me pulling on it really hard.