Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ed and Terry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

Real McCoy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,107
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Sep 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
After the lower slaby face the middle section has ...

Description 

This is a really fun route, I am not sure why I am not giving it 3 stars... perhaps because I liked Main Crack so much.

It is 5.7, but the moves are tenuous in places, and it is exciting for a bolted route.

This climb starts about 30 feet up hill from the Main Crack and climbs the face following 4 bolts until you reach a left facing corner. This corner (which turns into a crack as it approaches the two bolt anchor) takes small cams and nuts.


Protection 

There are 5 bolts, plus a couple of medium to large nuts for the section after the last bolt..

Two bolts/chains for an anchor. I rapped with a 60 meter rope and set up a toprope easily.



Photos of Real McCoy Slideshow Add Photo
21 The Real McCoy 5.7
BETA PHOTO: 21 The Real McCoy 5.7
Comments on Real McCoy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Jensen
Feb 15, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is doable without any trad gear. However, the bolts are fairly far apart and the first couple clips might make you nervous unless you climb well above this level. There is definitely the possibility of a nasty crater fall.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Aug 26, 2006

5 bolts before the flake on top. I placed two nuts after the last bolt (and clipped the manky old piton).

By Alex Headman
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We climbed this a couple weeks back. There isn't a pin in the route anymore, the only fixed protection is the 4 bolts, which was a bit of a shocker. Be sure and bring some nuts to protect the final 30-40 feet.

By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2008

There isn't a pin anywhere that I could find on the final section after the fifth bolt. I placed a #7 BD stopper to protect.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Oct 5, 2008

Really fun climb, and more thought-provoking that most 5.7s. Not a gimme at the grade. As others have said, the piton is no longer there. I placed a nut and a cam in the crack above the bolts. The spacing between the bolts may cause a beginner leader's pulse to quicken a bit, especially if you're used to the close spacing of newer routes. All in all, a great climb!

By Jordan Harmer
Apr 1, 2012

Climbed this yesterday without any trad gear. It was doable, but perhaps not the best idea; the bolts were fairly spaced, as others have mentioned, especially the last one. Probably 20-25 ft between the last bolt and the chains. Anchor bolts starting to look a little rusty, but still solid. I don't think I'd climb this again without a few nuts on my rack.

By Dakota Belliston
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

02/16/2014
I love this route ! Great climb that has it all their. Lots of small crimp grips. I would not reccemond the lead climb on this wall secondary to safety. Last 30 ft is without bolts meaning if you slip you got a good 60 ft drop. Could use another 1-2 bolts to make it a good lead climb. Be safe & have fun !!!

By ClimbingUte
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route, really fun! I've noticed the run-out on the last bolt. Otherwise, it seems harder than the 5.7 rating it's given. Climbing other routes on this wall like Main Crack (.7) & Call it a Knight (.10a) as well as everything on Red Slab, I would suggest it's closer to a .9 (or .8+) in comparison. Just my two cents.