Nuria Anguita-Bates gearing up for the crux deadpo...
Awesome climb. Beware for dirty holds after rain. I usually rappell into Junkyard via this route and use it to warm-up because not of the holds are tendon busters once you have it dialed.
1st bolt is a bit high but clipping stance is solid on a bomber horizontal and a big right hand flake. Balance and technique are essential for gaining the second and third bolts. Taller climbers can follow bolt line but shorter climbers might be forced into a detour out left that ends is a hard deadpoint off of non-existent feet. After clipping 3rd bolt use bad dish and high smeared foot to gain flake/layback system on the left to an easier finish.
Note: this route used to end 12 ft short of the top of the cliff, it now ends at the top of the cliff and the anchors are reachable from the gravel covered ledge.
Route lies immediatly left of The Contortionist and 2 routes left of classic but heavily guided 5.7.
Newly replaced bolts and Anchor by Jim Taylor. Thanks for continuing climb to top of cliff (previously stopped and fourth bolt)
It's got some good moves, but unfortunately it was extremely dirty making it hard to stick your feet. If you can make the reach approaching the second bolt, I can see 11b. If not and have to work a bit left, about 11c/d.
By camhead From: Vandalia, Appalachia Mar 27, 2014
Really fun climb; I can't believe I'd not done it before today. I will say that I was sketched at the flake from which you clip the high first bolt. The best part of it, on the right, is cracked and hollow. Having it break while you're clipping would really ruin your day. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 camalot (not .5 as mentioned above) about three feet below the flake.