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 ADVANCED
Junkyard Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 
Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Frigidator TR 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) T 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Lapping the Sap T 
Mr. Ed T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
Nine Lives T 
Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
Reaching New Heights  T 
Realignment T,TR 
Rhododenema T 
Scott's Turf Builder T 
Stuck In Another Dimension T 
Team Jesus T 
V-Slot T 
Who Knows? T 
Yew Nosemite T 

Reachers of Habit 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Horst, Guider '87
Page Views: 1,619
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007

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Nuria Anguita-Bates gearing up for the crux deadpo...

Description 

Awesome climb. Beware for dirty holds after rain. I usually rappell into Junkyard via this route and use it to warm-up because not of the holds are tendon busters once you have it dialed.

1st bolt is a bit high but clipping stance is solid on a bomber horizontal and a big right hand flake. Balance and technique are essential for gaining the second and third bolts. Taller climbers can follow bolt line but shorter climbers might be forced into a detour out left that ends is a hard deadpoint off of non-existent feet. After clipping 3rd bolt use bad dish and high smeared foot to gain flake/layback system on the left to an easier finish.

Note: this route used to end 12 ft short of the top of the cliff, it now ends at the top of the cliff and the anchors are reachable from the gravel covered ledge.

Location 

Route lies immediatly left of The Contortionist and 2 routes left of classic but heavily guided 5.7.

Protection 

Newly replaced bolts and Anchor by Jim Taylor. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 Camalot about three feet below the flake. Bolted anchor.


Photos of Reachers of Habit Slideshow Add Photo
Michael Martin working out the moves on this balan...
Michael Martin working out the moves on this balan...
Last of the fun moves on the climb. sorry about th...
Last of the fun moves on the climb. sorry about th...

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