Awesome climb. Beware for dirty holds after rain. I usually rappell into Junkyard via this route and use it to warm-up because not of the holds are tendon busters once you have it dialed.
1st bolt is a bit high but clipping stance is solid on a bomber horizontal and a big right hand flake. Balance and technique are essential for gaining the second and third bolts. Taller climbers can follow bolt line but shorter climbers might be forced into a detour out left that ends is a hard deadpoint off of non-existent feet. After clipping 3rd bolt use bad dish and high smeared foot to gain flake/layback system on the left to an easier finish.
Note: this route used to end 12 ft short of the top of the cliff, it now ends at the top of the cliff and the anchors are reachable from the gravel covered ledge.
Route lies immediatly left of The Contortionist
and 2 routes left of classic but heavily guided 5.7.
Newly replaced bolts and Anchor by Jim Taylor. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 Camalot about three feet below the flake. Bolted anchor.
Michael Martin working out the moves on this balan...
Last of the fun moves on the climb. sorry about th...