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Reach for the Sky 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 27, 2013

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Matt G at the top of his redpoint send

Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

At the back of the lane. Climb up to a perch below a seriously overhanging face. Pull through this on huge jugs to just below the v-groove exit in the roof. Set yourself up then make a cruxy throw to a jug in the groove. Keep your feet pasted, then find a way to layback up to the horizontal above. Step out right, then back left on an incredible undercling flake (protect here), then up to a thin slopey rail. A fall before the crux clip could be painful without the intermediate cam placement, hence the PG13 rating. Pull up to the ledge above through any number of cruxy combinations. Catch another breather before the final sequence up the slightly overhanging orange wall. A proud send.

Location 

At the back of the lane, up the face between the arete and the dihedral. Just outside the Birth Canal.

Protection 

316 steel (2005), 1" piece (.5 camalot)
One titanium bolt added to anchor (2014)


Comments on Reach for the Sky Add Comment
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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 2, 2014

bolting on this climb is weird; shorter folks have to run out the crux -- and with a diagonal roof to crash into it's not the nicest of falls.
Light belayer advised!
By BrianWS
Feb 15, 2015

Never sent this one... It's a tough, full value 5.11. The first time I gave it an honest attempt was in full summer sun, and thought I was going to die a hot, sweaty death.
By John Martin2
Jul 8, 2016

This was one of my favorite climbs at Long Dong. A fun juggy roof with a big move to get out and then even better face/slab climbing. The bolt past the undercling was a little reachy and Im 185cm, but I was able to get a tricam in the undercling which reduced the risk of a dicey fall. Definitely easier when the sun is off it

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