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Motherlode Rock - West Face
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Whiskeroo 

Reach for the Sky 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller and Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2007
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Reach for the Sky (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...

Description 

Reaching from an undercling to a distant edge with poor feet is the crux (shorter climbers may find it even harder), but once the second bolt is reached the difficulties quickly subside. Large, incut edges gain a sloping ledge below a short headwall, above which a fingery sequence on thin edges gains the anchors.

Originally done without the first bolt and the bolted anchors, all of which were added many years later.


Location 

Just left of Whiskeroo and right of some small pine trees; there often is a large cheaterstone at the base.


Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Reach for the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
The green and orange of "Reach for the Sky".
The green and orange of "Reach for the Sky".
Motherlode Rock - West Face (right side).
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock - West Face (right side).
Joel past the crux on Reach for the Sky (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Joel past the crux on Reach for the Sky (5.10b), H...
Scott Nomi on the opening moves.
Scott Nomi on the opening moves.
awesome climb! terrible warm up..
awesome climb! terrible warm up..
Scott Nomi following Reach for the Sky.
Scott Nomi following Reach for the Sky.
Tiff, through the opening crux... after clipping this bolt, the climbing eases significantly!!
Tiff, through the opening crux... after clipping t...
Comments on Reach for the Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Yeah, I remember attempting this with a TCU at the start and knowing it as "Patio Wall".

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Climbed this today, and ignored the cheatstones. The opening moves up to the horn, and then past the first bolt finally to the big holds felt like V1 to me. So I think it's 10c.

A spotter is advisable at the first bolt clip.

By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Aug 22, 2010

Tricky start for shorter climbers. Pretty burly from the first hold through the slanted ledge. Eases off past the starting ledge.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Mike Newheart brought up a good point; he thought this felt a lot like Clean and Jerk at JT, except a tad harder.

By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Nov 15, 2010

beginning moves are the toughest. there is an awesome positive patina face that has holds on the right and left sides above the first bolt. use it to gain proper balance and stance. juggish through the rest of the route.

By PrrdyLady
From: Riverside, CA
Jun 29, 2012

I literally can not reach the first hold without the cheat stone, I'm rather short, but I lead this climb clean first go. What exactly do I call that?

By Clif Clap
Jul 30, 2013

I'm tall enough to do this one without a cheat stone but I don't think I'd recommend it. I might be missing something as everyone else is rating it pretty favorably but I found it more awkward than difficult. There a couple of interesting moments in terms of reading the route but overall I didn't find it to be very fun.