Re-Thinking the Ethics 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04 |
| Submitted By: | Bosier Parsons on Apr 18, 2008 |
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Nice lead for RROS.
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Description This route is short but sweet. The initial move to reach the first bolt could be the crux, then continue up past 3 more bolts, following a right facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the top of an arch. The second crux comes just above the last bolt, reaching to establish the layback position up the remainder of the corner. The guide info is from Stewart Green's publication.
Location This is the first route you come to on the Ripple Wall (furthest north).
Protection 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You can also place a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot in between the last bolt and the anchor, but this is not really necessary.
Baker leading...on-sight.
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Mid-crux.
Photo by Brian R.
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At the anchors.
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Getting quickdraw ready to clip.
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| Comments on Re-Thinking the Ethics |
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By Michael West
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 8, 2008
| Super fun, one of the best routes in RRCOS. |
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 23, 2008
| Once you've set the TR anchors, try the face route starting around the second birch tree. All you get are crimppers and 1/8" ledges. It's maybe 5.10 - really makes you trust your feet. |
By Adub
Nov 21, 2008
| Great route. Blood stain adds a little excitement to the route.
The second bolt was a wee bit loose last Sunday (11/16/08). I tightened it as tight as my fingers could get it. Otherwise, it was a stellar route. |
By j.mayo
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 31, 2009
| This is one of my favorites in RRCOS. |
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
May 5, 2010
| It appears that there is a bolt scar between the current last bolt and the anchors where there used to be one more bolt. Once you get the undercling, there is only one committing move before it is actually more relaxing than the route looks. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| Really fun route. Crux is definitely the start. I was about to lead it walking the upper ledge, as I had seen others do on top rope. A friend suggested I do the layback; really glad I did. That first move to establish is super fun! |
By David Hertel
From: Sitka, AK
Dec 16, 2010
| I generally used the slopers above the rail more than the underclings. It just felt easier to balance to get my feet to a better stance. At the bolts, I was clinging to one of these said slopers and discovered (after I had anchored in with a sling) a ginormous hold directly above the anchor bolts in the bottom of the rail. Wish I had found that one out beforehand. It would certainly have made things a lot less complicated. Fortunately though, I didn't take a whipper, but it was sure a difficult on-sight for my level of climbing and style. |
By Ryan Reid
Sep 30, 2012
| This is one of the best climbs here. Always fun! |
By John D
Nov 26, 2012
| Any thoughts on whether or not this route would go on gear? I've been eyeing it for a couple of months now but haven't gotten around to getting on it. |
By Anthony Milano
Feb 5, 2013
| This is a fantastic climb....
We tried it on gear, and it appears that the sandstone is too weak....
Early last summer, my buddy and I were placing some gear (to get closer to the corner/climb it more naturally).... I slipped (about three or four feet above the cam that was deep in the crack) and it ripped out huge chunks of sandstone. It didn't ruin or change the climb at all, but some of the crack is now a bit wider. I would recommend against the gear and feel that the bolts are very well placed. One climber walking past us said he tried gear too and decided it wasn't worth it about halfway up after having a hold break. |
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