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 ADVANCED
Daff Dome West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam T 
Blown Away T 
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 
Chvchichaschtli S 
Cooke Book T 
Crescent Arch T 
El Condor T 
Grey Ghost T 
Plagiarism T 
R.C.A. T 
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 
West Crack T 
West of the Witch S 
Witch of the West S 

R.C.A. 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo 1973
Season: Gets afternoon sun
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014

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R.C.A. on the west face of Daff Dome

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts up the beautiful mini-corner Right of Crescent Arch with three pitches of successively more committing and wonderfully varied, quality 5.8 climbing.

Scramble 4th class up to the corner from the sandy ledge with two evergreen trees and setup a belay. 60 feet.

P1: Climb up the low angle hand crack until it steepens to fingers/hands and make a 5.8 move. Above this the crack disappears make a spicy 5.8 face traverse 20 feet right past good knobs to a two bolt belay.

P2: Climb more or less straight right about 20 feet from the belay on sustained 5.8+ knobs with no protection over to the black water streak, continue up to a prominent dike that crosses the face. Another 10 feet or so up the streak reaches a very welcome new ASCA bolt. Continue up the streak 5.7 past wonderful knobs, numerous pockets and horizontals with great gear. Belay to the right from the bolts on the ledge above. The tree can be avoided and left undamaged by traversing just below it on a horizontal.

P3: From bolted anchor, climb up and right to a shallow left facing corner to reach super fun horizontals. Climb up past a few horizontals, the last with good small TCU's. The difficulties end with a hard, committing and improbable mantle with dangerous fall potential (5.8+ R), maybe the most dangerous and difficult move of the route. Continue up on easy terrain to a ledge with evergreen trees.

Scramble 4th class to the summit.

Location 

Ascends the arching corner Right of Crescent Arch on the west face of Daff Dome.

Protection 

A single set of cams to 2", set of TCU's, a #0.25 Tricam is very useful, about 8 runners, stoppers.


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By taipan jam
Jul 5, 2015

Memorial Day in the late 80's. The Meadoes..."Nobody goes there anymore it's too crowded"

Crowd on West Crack, Crescent, Cooke. So buddy finds up this "gem".


We did the direct face variation on the first pitch (right of pretty dihedral). Long story. Very runout and untrammeled...do no recommend.

Also my partner tried to lead the 3rd pitch off the ledge and as described, there is serious ledge potential on the mantle. Your gear is about 15' off ledge and mantle is 30'.

He lowered off TCU after downclimbing and left it in before traversing straight right (escape variation, see old blue Tuolumne guide w/ Dale Bard on cover). While this was a good strategy----and recommended!!!, it left me pulling his TCU from the original pitch looking at a significant pendulum. I fell and managed to stay on the ledge..it hurt a bit. But less than the potential swing to the next gear...

It's about 5.5 from there but be sure to take care of your seconds! Long runners, thin cord for tie offs, and a good head for pucker will help.
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