|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|FA:||Tobin Sorenson, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo 1973|
|Season:||Gets afternoon sun|
|Submitted By:||john durr on Aug 15, 2014|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on R.C.A.||Add Comment|
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By taipan jam
Jul 5, 2015
Memorial Day in the late 80's. The Meadoes..."Nobody goes there anymore it's too crowded"
Crowd on West Crack, Crescent, Cooke. So buddy finds up this "gem".
We did the direct face variation on the first pitch (right of pretty dihedral). Long story. Very runout and untrammeled...do no recommend.
Also my partner tried to lead the 3rd pitch off the ledge and as described, there is serious ledge potential on the mantle. Your gear is about 15' off ledge and mantle is 30'.
He lowered off TCU after downclimbing and left it in before traversing straight right (escape variation, see old blue Tuolumne guide w/ Dale Bard on cover). While this was a good strategy----and recommended!!!, it left me pulling his TCU from the original pitch looking at a significant pendulum. I fell and managed to stay on the ledge..it hurt a bit. But less than the potential swing to the next gear...
It's about 5.5 from there but be sure to take care of your seconds! Long runners, thin cord for tie offs, and a good head for pucker will help.