Razors to Rubble
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|FA: ||TR: Jay Eggleston, Mark Roth, 4-20-11, First lead: Mark Roth, 7-25-11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Mark Roth on Jul 25, 2011|
First Lead... The low gear is only to keep the hoo...
The first half of the route is a steep slab with a veritable ladder of perfect crimps (the "razors"). The top has some loose flakes, cracks, and loose blocks (the "rubble"). The first half is super fun, but probably R rated. The crux comes at about 20 feet. The holds get really small for a section and you have to mantle and stand up on your handhold... I used hooks with duct tape to protect this move. There is also a red C3, but I don't know if it would hold. After the crux you get good gear, a #5 cam. One more big move and you get a #9 hex. After mantling onto a ledge and moving to the highest point, there is one more tricky section. A #2 C3 & a similar sized nut in a loose flake "protect" the move off the ledge. A seam on your right will take a bomber #2 RP and a #1 ballnut. A few moves later there is a nice hole that takes a perfect 2.5 tricam. Angle left (watch out for a large loose flake) and follow broken cracks up to a tree with slings and rings....
This is the furthest left route on Redgarden wall, therefore WAY up the trail. Start on the face about 12 feet left of Doris Gets Her Oats. This is the buttress on the left when the trail heads up the walk off gully.
Maybe listed too much gear beta already? Standard rack... #5 Camalot is nice (or a #6), #9 hex (an 8 or 10 may also work in this spot), the 2.5 tricam was perfect (didn't see any other gear near by, so it was nice to have).
It is easy to toprope from a tree directly above the route. There is easy access from the Redgarden wall walk off trail.
End of the crux jug and a nice big cam. With any ...
Trying to stem to solid rock near the top.