Razors to Rubble  5.9+ R

551 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  TR: Jay Eggleston, Mark Roth, 4-20-11, First lead: Mark Roth, 7-25-11 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Mark Roth on Jul 25, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

First Lead... The low gear is only to keep the hoo...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

The first half of the route is a steep slab with a veritable ladder of perfect crimps (the "razors"). The top has some loose flakes, cracks, and loose blocks (the "rubble"). The first half is super fun, but probably R rated. The crux comes at about 20 feet. The holds get really small for a section and you have to mantle and stand up on your handhold... I used hooks with duct tape to protect this move. There is also a red C3, but I don't know if it would hold. After the crux you get good gear, a #5 cam. One more big move and you get a #9 hex. After mantling onto a ledge and moving to the highest point, there is one more tricky section. A #2 C3 & a similar sized nut in a loose flake "protect" the move off the ledge. A seam on your right will take a bomber #2 RP and a #1 ballnut. A few moves later there is a nice hole that takes a perfect 2.5 tricam. Angle left (watch out for a large loose flake) and follow broken cracks up to a tree with slings and rings....

Location 

This is the furthest left route on Redgarden wall, therefore WAY up the trail. Start on the face about 12 feet left of Doris Gets Her Oats. This is the buttress on the left when the trail heads up the walk off gully.

Protection 

Maybe listed too much gear beta already? Standard rack... #5 Camalot is nice (or a #6), #9 hex (an 8 or 10 may also work in this spot), the 2.5 tricam was perfect (didn't see any other gear near by, so it was nice to have).

It is easy to toprope from a tree directly above the route. There is easy access from the Redgarden wall walk off trail.

Photos of Razors to Rubble Slideshow

Add Photo

End of the crux jug and a nice big cam. With any ...	Half way....	Trying to stem to solid rock near the top.