Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Anvil
Select Route:
Hammer Time T 
Iron Age T 
Razor's Edge T 

Razor's Edge 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alam and Roumph
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 562
Submitted By: Alam on Feb 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

This 4 pitch route climbs the lower face of the Anvil to connect with the striking SW arete - crack before finding in a right facing dihedral. P1 and P3 and P4 are very nice. P3 is "Sandia at its worse" - blocky and loose. Can do P3 and 4 for a nice 5.9 outing.(See Topo)

P1 (***) start at base of clean face in dihedral that forms the left side of a distinct petestal. Climb up and then move left to arete to a small ledge, step right back (5.10 crux) to arete and follow up to 2 bolt belay.

P2 Short pitch: loose and blocky - aiming for the base of the stunning crack on the arete. Has a tendecy to ruin the rest of the climb.

P3: climb this flake crack by lie backing for ~ 60 feet (5.8-) to the 2 bolt belay. Eats #4 Camelots - would be strenuous, except the flake has a perfect foot ledge every 10 feet to shake out and place pro.

P4: Climb Straight up from belay, (5.9) then drift left on a seam/ramp, until you can fight your way back to large right facing dihedral finishing on top where you rigged your first rappel.

Location 

Located north of Hammer Time and south of the route Storm Rider(? - I am sure I have that name wrong) - Rap. #1 Rappel in to N/W facing dihedral (NO fixed gear - please remove slings on this top rappel when you finish route) - 200 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. Rap #2 Rappel down arete through blocks to another 2 bolt anchor (180 feet). Rap #3 - 200 feet to gully defining face on climbers left. (We had another rappel off to the climbers right to reach the true bottom of this formation, but is not needed).

Protection 

All natural pro - from small sliders to #4 Camelot. 2 bolt belays on 2 of rap stations


Photos of Razor's Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Tall Man Andy heading into the "unknown" on Pitch 1 of the Razors Edge. The crux is on the face directly above the 6 inch overlap seen above Andy....
BETA PHOTO: Tall Man Andy heading into the "unknown" on Pitch ...
At the base of the Anvil. Pitch 1 of the Razors Edge skirts the roofs (above my head and slightly to the right)  before moving back left to gain the arete. Someone with more time and skill needs to tackle the beautiful face to my left through the roofs
BETA PHOTO: At the base of the Anvil. Pitch 1 of the Razors Ed...
Myself on the stunning flake at the start of Pitch 3. From across the canyon this feature looked like a 6-8 inch crack (OW), so we came mentally prepared for a major struggle, but were overjoyed to find this perfect rock and flake with a rest every 10 feet. A #4 purple Camelot was the biggest I needed (Whew!!)
Myself on the stunning flake at the start of Pitch...

Comments on Razor's Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alam
Aug 7, 2011

Two new shiny bolts now mark the top of the final pitch anchor of Razor'sEedge. So much for "keeping the visual impact low" by removing your upper rappel slings as originally described in the Razor write up.

I am too old and devious to bother chopping them (besides solid anchors are always welcome in the Sandias), so now you have an solid anchor for the first rappel of Razors Edge (RE).

Obviously someone has added (or is working) a new route in the area, but is using the same RE dihedral as a finish. Please provide details of any new routes in this area. Anything that will clean up these climbs.