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People who climb the Razor's Edge route sometimes don't even know that's it's name. More likely than not, they'll just say they climbed The Hand. This route is synonymous with the formation and probably accounts for 98%-plus of the ascents here.
1) Climb gully, stepping up and left at it's top to gain the top of a small buttress where you'll find a fixed anchor.
2) Climb up slope on the fin clipping bolts to gain Chicken Ledge at the top (fixed anchor). Lots of climbers try to cross the last very exposed bit of Chicken Ledge by walking. Give it a go!
3) Continue up the arete of the fin, clipping the occasional bolt, to the top. A short crack move will be found at the top. You might want a medium sized cam for that.
Descent: Rappel (double rope) down the southern side of the formation back to the ground off the south face.
Found on the Hand and basically climbs the eastern arete of the fin.
The route starts downhill on the southeastern corner in a gully between "The Thumb" and the main part of the fin.
Light rack of mediums cams/nuts, quickdraws, two ropes.
|By Sam Prentice|
Mar 15, 2009
Proud old school mini on a lesser formation. Worth doing once a year, but never again on a weekend.
This is a two pitch climb. Ascend the east ridge starting in an east facing class 4 gully. Pitch one ends at the obvious saddle belay with a shiny new 3/8" and two mank 1/4" rawls. The double rope rap descent is well protected.
|By Taylor Morgan|
From: Draper, UT
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Fun climb, but some very shady rawls. For as many ascents as this route sees, a local with time/resources should look into replacing manky bolts. Rap anchors also questionable...
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Dec 7, 2011
I thought this route was OK. However, its only OK for its novelty and not it's climbing. When I climbed it the bolts were horrible at best and the rock somewhat suspect. I wouldn't climb it again.
|By Nate Young|
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
We climbed the hand on New Years Eve day 2011.
We got to the climb at 2:30pm or so, and had to wait around a little while for some other climbers to finish.
The first pitch was about 60 feet of Class 4 scrabbling, without any bolts or pitons to clip into, so that was kinda cool. The second pitch was runout in places, sometimes with 20-25 feet between the bolts, but was easy climbing for the most part. The third pitch was belayed from a 3 foot wide ledge, and was the easier of the two real pitches. There are a few placements for nuts and cams that were pretty solid, so bring some pro from .05 - 2 cams.
A couple of the bolts are new, but most are really rusty and cringe inducing. Bring some of your own protection for the 3rd pitch if you don't like to run the more exposed sections out. The anchors and RAP bolts on top are really old to, but there are three of them linked together with chains
I wouldn't recommend this lead climb for anyone new to leading or who isn't comfortable with exposure. There are plenty of places on this climb where you are a good 20 feet above a pretty sketchy bolt, without any other protection. It's also extremely narrow in places, so when the wind starts to pick up you'll get blown around a bit.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13
We thought the climbing on this was pretty fun, and the rappel off the top is a blast....however, the bolts/protection, especially on the final pitch are less than inspiring. I honestly believe if somebody took a fall up there those Rawls might (probably) would pull. I agree some local should go replace those things, until then I would not recommend climbing this route. PG-13 rating is ONLY for the bolts condition, not the climbing itself.
|By matt evans|
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 23, 2012
As usual, I lost something important after my last climb here on the 22nd. It's a small 3cm by 4cm white, disc shaped electronic device that's used to test my blood sugar continuously. It stopped sending a signal to my insulin pump at the first set of anchors, so I'm guessing it's in that area. I'm going to go looking for it sometime this week since it is pretty expensive, but just wanted to post this in case someone finds it and thinks it is trash.
By the way this is a classic route with easy climbing. Just need one piece of small to medium sized gear near the top of the last pitch. You place it in a crack that's next to a bulge (probably the only 5.6 move on the route). The exposure on the chicken ledge and the double rope rap down make this route a classic.
|By William Nelson|
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 3, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Started in right gully on first pitch. Exposed final move left on first pitch is easy but without pro. Once you make this move look behind you for belay anchor (new and older bolt). I missed this and continued to next miserable piton. Fun route with great exposure and some "veteran" bolts. Protected crack at top of third pitch with a #2 Omega Pacific link cam (prob could use #1 BD CD4 cam).
From: Queen Creek AZ
Apr 14, 2013
I was just up there yesterday. The old mank bolts have been replaced. The pitons are still there, but you can get gear between the two in the horizantal crack. The top anchors are still the old ones but they dont look like they are going anywhere
|By Mike McDonald|
May 11, 2013
As a heads up we went up the first pitch of the hand on 5/9 and heard a hug cloud of bees fly overhead, and when we got up to the 2nd pitch the cloud flew by again. We bailed and told the rangers, keep an eye out for bee activity.
|By C. Archibald|
Dec 1, 2013
I really wanted to climb over the Thanksgiving holiday, so I talked my brother into doing this route. My bro had climbed outside twice, all single pitch. I led to chicken ledge. I brought my brother up. The climbing was easy, but the exposure really got to him. He was very pale and shaky on chicken ledge! We rapped off from there. Just a note in case you're planning to take an inexperienced climber on this!