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Eagle Pinnacle
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North Gully East 
Razor's Edge 
Small Affair direct 
Spoodge 
Untickable, The 

Razor's Edge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Wilson, Tobin Sorenson & John Long 1974
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 7, 2006
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Description 

Lieback the large, somewhat uninspiring flake system just left of Electric Razor (5.11a), passing two bolts near the top where the flake becomes distressingly thin and creaky. When the flake ends step right and climb a steep, thrutchy left-slanting crack system past a wide section to a stance with a bolted anchor.

Bats live inside the flake, so the desired technique while climbing the flake is to thump the flake soundly (enjoy the hollow vibratory sound it makes) and then lieback up a distance. Repeat the process until past the flake and into the crack system.

The climbing on this is fairly good but the creaking flake makes you wonder if you'll make it to the top before it parts company with the cliff and falls earthward. Still, overall it's an experience not to be missed.


Location 

Located in the middle of the face between Kiss of the Spiderwoman and Electric Razor above a large, low-angled slab. Getting to the base of the climb is somewhat problematic and involves an exposed traverse from the right that comes in below Spoodge or climbing a 5.7 thin crack to slab. There's a two bolt anchor at the base of the climb which affords an easy anchor and makes for an easy descent back to the ground.


Protection 

2 bolts, gear to 3.5", bolted anchor/rap



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