Razor Blade Romance
|Original: || Hueco: V3- Font: 6A [details]|
|FA: ||Matt wallace?|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||When its dry.|
|Page Views: ||288|
|Submitted By: ||matthewWallace on Mar 3, 2010|
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This route may be a new route, I have never seen any chalk or sign of climbing on it. If I am incorrect or you have any other information please let me know.
Sit start on the far left of the wall. The hold you start on always has chalk on it and has a loose piece of rock in it that wiggles but will not come out. Start here with your foot on the dagger like foot, stand up and grab the sharp crimp (the origins of the name). Once established here move your feet and go to the crimp up and right, then move your feet if you need to and go to the good top out. Once having your hands over the lip traverse right until you can rock over and top out.
In the Entrance Boulders this shares a wall with Cavers Problem but starts on the far left side of the wall on the weird jug that always has chalk on it.
Pads are a must because of the sharp rocks below, a spotter is good to.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 31, 2014
rating: V2-3 5+
I nearly killed myself on this today when the left hand crimp broke and sent me flying towards the pointy rock below, which I did not have padded. Luckily, I just missed it with my head.
Anyhow, there is a small sidepull left, below where the crimp was. I climbed it on my next try and it felt similar in difficulty. I was able to go left hand to the sidepull and then use a subtle right heel hook to go all the way to the lip with my right hand.