To date there are three walls two of which face west northwest and the third, Boulder X about 40 feet tall, faces south. There are not many moderate climbs. One trad 5.8 and two sport 5.9's a few 5.10s and the rest are 5.11 or 5.12. The lower and tallest wall is maybe 70 feet tall and has a big break about 2/3 of the way up it. The upper wall 50 feet tall at most is much more climbable with overhanging jug hauls from 5.8 to 5.11. Things can be a bit grainy and fuzzy with lichen but it isn't too bad.
To the best of my knowledge this small area was discovered and probably first climbed by Ray Ringle. He and some friends top-roped most of the lines on the upper wall and may have done the same on the lower wall as well. He tried to convince me to set it up for leading 10 years ago but I declined until recently. A single route Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ was put up on the lower wall by Luis Cisneros and Christian Espanol??? The first ascent is thought to have been done by a guy named Steve, but Luis can't remember his last name.
The upper wall gets really crowded most weekends but it is pretty quiet during the week.
Park at the Sunset Trail parking area which is just opposite Butterfly Trail just past Bear Wallow around milepost 22. Take the road right behind the sign showing the trail not the one with the gate. Follow this down 200 yards or so just past a turn to the right. Rocks will be blocking the road here. Continue past them on the now blocked road 100 feet or so then take the road down to the left. When you reach the drainage find the trail and follow it downstream staying right next to the stream. You will pass a short lichen covered cliff with a roof. The next wall downstream is the Lower Wall. Work around the right side and up to reach the upper cliff.
Pumpy climbing up a steep laybacks with good gear, leads you to a bolt at the crux. Fun face climbing to the ledge then one more bit of business through the top bulge to the chains. ...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
For approach do not go through the gate behind the sign in the parking lot. This is not the correct road, it will lead to a bridge. Instead take the road that has a "dead end" sign and a carbonite "trail ahead" marker. Furthermore, when you pass the overhanging rock with lichen on the approach continue down the trail another 200 yards or so. The trail will cross the creek and there will be a large landing area with bolts facing the stream. Fun place with overhanging routes that have nice holds.
Big thanks to Myk Brown for donating all the mussy hooks that were added to the tops of many routes at this crag. Still a good idea to use your own draws at the top until the last person does the route then they can lower off the fixed stuff.