Mountain Project: Climbing Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

To date there are three walls two of which face west northwest and the third, Boulder X about 40 feet tall, faces south. There are not many moderate climbs. One trad 5.8 and two sport 5.9's a few 5.10s and the rest are 5.11 or 5.12. The lower and tallest wall is maybe 70 feet tall and has a big break about 2/3 of the way up it.
The upper wall 50 feet tall at most is much more climbable with overhanging jug hauls from 5.8 to 5.11. Things can be a bit grainy and fuzzy with lichen but it isn't too bad.

To the best of my knowledge this small area was discovered and probably first climbed by Ray Ringle. He and some friends top-roped most of the lines on the upper wall and may have done the same on the lower wall as well. He tried to convince me to set it up for leading 10 years ago but I declined until recently. A single route Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ was put up on the lower wall by Luis Cisneros and Christian Espanol??? The first ascent is thought to have been done by a guy named Steve, but Luis can't remember his last name.

The upper wall gets really crowded most weekends but it is pretty quiet during the week.

Getting There

Park at the Sunset Trail parking area which is just opposite Butterfly Trail just past Bear Wallow around milepost 22. Take the road right behind the sign showing the trail not the one with the gate. Follow this down 200 yards or so just past a turn to the right. Rocks will be blocking the road here. Continue past them on the now blocked road 100 feet or so then take the road down to the left. When you reach the drainage find the trail and follow it downstream staying right next to the stream. You will pass a short lichen covered cliff with a roof. The next wall downstream is the Lower Wall. Work around the right side and up to reach the upper cliff.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Raycreation Area:

Jackie's Separation Anxiety 5.9- Sport, 45 feet Upper Wall

Raytallyation 5.10 Sport, 40 feet Upper Wall

Geir Up 5.11- Trad, 55 feet Upper Wall

Skater X 5.11- Sport, 40 feet Boulder X

Marcy's Playground 5.11- Trad, 70 feet Lower Wall

Sting Ray, AKA Geirless Warrior 5.11- Sport, 50 feet Upper Wall

Raycreational Jug Use 5.11 Trad, 65 feet Lower Wall

Rayzors Edge 5.11 Sport, 40 feet Upper Wall

Raycreation 5.11 Sport, 55 feet Upper Wall

Canadian Bacon 5.11 Sport, 60 feet Lower Wall

Registered NILFs 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Lower Wall

Captain Cook 5.11+ Sport, 45 feet Upper Wall

Plateonic Love 5.11+ Sport, 50 feet Upper Wall

Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ Sport, 45 feet Lower Wall

Monster Buck 5.12- Sport, 55 feet Lower Wall

Bouldering 101 5.12 Sport, 40 feet Lower Wall

Comments on Raycreation Area

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2012

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 21, 2010

This place is really a lot of fun! A wide variety of climbs, good rock, and a short approach.

By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2010

For approach do not go through the gate behind the sign in the parking lot. This is not the correct road, it will lead to a bridge. Instead take the road that has a "dead end" sign and a carbonite "trail ahead" marker. Furthermore, when you pass the overhanging rock with lichen on the approach continue down the trail another 200 yards or so. The trail will cross the creek and there will be a large landing area with bolts facing the stream. Fun place with overhanging routes that have nice holds.

By jbak
Jul 25, 2010

A really nice addition to Tucson summer climbing. Pretty spot that didn't get hit by the fires... nice hangout. Cool, shady, fun routes.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 25, 2010

For those of you who have Google Earth, you can view the approach using the file below:

www.geir.com/googleearth/lemmon/raycreation.kmz

(Google Earth can be downloaded for free.)

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 9, 2010

i think we've witnessed the birth of a new premier sport crag on the upper mountain. way to go, eric & co!

By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 11, 2010

Props to whoever fixed up the trail to the upper wall recently--looks great. Thanks!

By Megan McCormick
May 17, 2011

Hi I left a draw on Step Class today. My climbing partner cut his hand and we wanted to get out as soon as possible so we just left it. Please let me know if you pick it up, thanks! Megan

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 19, 2012

Big thanks to Myk Brown for donating all the mussy hooks that were added to the tops of many routes at this crag. Still a good idea to use your own draws at the top until the last person does the route then they can lower off the fixed stuff.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 19, 2012

Yeah Myk!

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2012

Thanks for making our climbing experience a little easier and a little safer Myk!

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Raycreation Area

Description

Getting There

The Classics