By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Nov 25, 2006 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Wowzers. Awesome climb. The business is right in the middle, through a long section of ring locks and rattly fingers. The feet are brutally tough in this section, but fight the urge to stem right... it will decrease the grade significantly. Mostly gear from yellow alien to #0.75 camalot... but a #3 camalot could come in handy at the top and you can get a #1 in at the bottom. The climb stays in your face all the way to the top, so don't think it is over when you get to the roof!
What a great crack. Felt like sustained 10d if you stick with the crack and don't stem.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 5, 2008
Saw a guy climb this route with his jaw wired shut. That was impressive, and made the Grotto quite loud with his breathing.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Apr 2, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Sustained, covers about every bad hand size. tight hands, rattly fingers and fingertips. A few bomber locks in the finger section. Good feet are hard to find, but the falls are clean. Seems more like .11a, especially if they call Snake Bite .11b.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Dec 21, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Did it again and fell again. This thing is painful and sustained. Gear is also challenging because of all the crystals on the walls of the crack. Forget TCU and organize your rack well, get those BD .4, .5 and .75's ready and don't be afraid to use them... quickly.