Ravenclaw  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  late spring to early fall Submitted By:  Bernard Gillett on Aug 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Ravenclaw begins in the right-facing dihedral immediately to the left of Riding with the Ravens. Climb the dihedral for 20 feet, then step right into a flake (crossing over Riding...). Follow the flake to its end, gain a short crack, and then:

A) Traverse right 15 feet (delicate 5.9+) to the final bolt on Crystal Staircase and continue to its anchors (lower off 50 feet).

B) Continue straight up through the big roof on G3 (5.10+, bolts) and lower off 95 feet.

We did option (A) on the first ascent, before the bolts on G3 had been placed. It may be possible to clip the first of the new bolts on G3 as you make your way to the last bolt on Crystal Staircase. Without that bolt, the traverse gets a little spicy at its end. Now that the bolts on G3 are in, the more logical finish is straight up -- that is, option (B).

Location 

Start in the right-facing dihedral just left of Riding with the Ravens, next to two pine trees. See the G3 topo.

Protection 

Wires; small cams to 2", and the last 6 bolts on G3 for option (B).