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 ADVANCED
Wizard's Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterlife  S 
Black Magic  S 
Book of Spells T 
Cloak and Dagger S 
Crystal Staircase S 
Dark Horse S 
Dead End  T 
Fantasia T 
G3 S 
Gatekeeper, The S 
Guillotine, The S 
Magic Carpet Ride  S 
Magic Dagger S 
Merlin's Magic Corner T 
Ravenclaw T 
Riding with the Ravens S 
Take Me to Your Leader S 
Witchway Arete S 
Wizard's Path S 

Ravenclaw 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 4, 2011

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Description 

Ravenclaw begins in the right-facing dihedral immediately to the left of Riding with the Ravens. Climb the dihedral for 20 feet, then step right into a flake (crossing over Riding...). Follow the flake to its end, gain a short crack, and then:

A) Traverse right 15 feet (delicate 5.9+) to the final bolt on Crystal Staircase and continue to its anchors (lower off 50 feet).

B) Continue straight up through the big roof on G3 (5.10+, bolts) and lower off 95 feet.

We did option (A) on the first ascent, before the bolts on G3 had been placed. It may be possible to clip the first of the new bolts on G3 as you make your way to the last bolt on Crystal Staircase. Without that bolt, the traverse gets a little spicy at its end. Now that the bolts on G3 are in, the more logical finish is straight up -- that is, option (B).

Location 

Start in the right-facing dihedral just left of Riding with the Ravens, next to two pine trees. See the G3 topo.

Protection 

Wires; small cams to 2", and the last 6 bolts on G3 for option (B).


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