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5.8 Crag
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Blueballs at Christmas T 
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Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

Raven 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Bowker, 1986
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: This is a crappy topo shot, but it does show the r...

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Raven is one of the more obscure routes in the area and does not see a lot of traffic. The start is a little vegetated, but it's not too bad. Climb the dirty corner past a couple of bolts and a pin (back up with a medium stopper). From the pin, make some awkward moves up on to a large, flat ledge and clip the next bolt. Continue straight up the slightly overhanging headwall. The crux is clipping the bolt at the top of the headwall (if you blow the clip, you'll hit the ledge). Mantle through a couple more awkward ledges and then work right to the anchors. Strange climb, but worthwhile.

Location 

Raven is located on the right side of 5.8 crag. Scramble up the slope to the top of the formation and look for a climb with six bolts that shoots straight to the top. This is Only a Crow (5.10c) and shares anchors with Raven. Head back down the slope and location a large, dirty corner the heads up and right, with a couple of bolts visible from the ground. Raven starts up the corner.

Protection 

8 bolts and a pin to Quick Clip anchors.


Comments on Raven Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did this route for the first time today and found it surprisingly enjoyable.

Be care not to blow any clips if you do it will be a painful for sure, also there is a lot of rope drag if you back clean the pin it will eliminate a lot of the rope drag.
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I thought this was an enjoyable and unique climb. There were some sketchy spots and plenty of rope drag for sure. Do not try to clean this after your lead, have someone follow and clean. It was a nightmare to clean from the top.
By karl vochatzer
From: Austin, TX
Jul 16, 2013

Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt.