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La Vista
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Daisy T 
Raven Steals the Sun T 

Raven Steals the Sun 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jason Patton and Kevin Jaramillo, August 07
New Route: Yes
Season: spring through fall best
Page Views: 1,413
Submitted By: Jason J Patton on May 22, 2009

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Jason Patton leading pitch 5 of RSTS during FA

Description 

From the tree a top the main face after the notch rap straight down ~190' to a stance with a pin and a bolt. From there rap ~60'until you can see a nice belay ledge with a pin and a bolt. You have to swing with a bit of effort to reach this as it will be off to your right a ways. We left a link on the fixed pin but it is wise to leave a draw here as the rope was tough to pull. From here rap to a tree covered ledge ~100 (The Living Room). Walk north across the ledge and scramble down to a big spruce and rap straight down 190' to another big tree. One last long rap to the ground from here.

P1-(12A): A stiff warm up especially when its cold. Start right of a little hole/cave beneath a clean slab split by a right leaning seam with fixed pins in it. Climb up on good edges to gain the seam. Crank the tips seam pasting your feet on slippery, bullet granite to a right facing, thin flake. Climb straight up through a break and step left at the top of the flake and over to a small stance with a little tree. Crank some bouldery moves on some rounded knobs and pinches to gain a nice clean left facing corner which ends at a tree belay and a good ledgy stance.

P2-(5.9): Climb up right for a couple easy moves then back left and up pull up over a roof with a wide crack on its right. Pull the roof on jugs with good feet. Work right towards a nice looking finger crack. Climb the crack and pull around a pillar to a grassy ledge. climb up and right on a ramp with loose blocks on it. Avoid the blocks to the right and climb up into an offwidth. Climb up the offwidth and out left over a roof. This puts you back on a good ledge where the second to last rappel anchor is. Scramble back up to the right and into the Living room and belay there if your rope drag is not too bad or belay at the rap anchor tree and do another short pitch to the living room.

P3/4-(11c): Climb up the Raven pillar and the steep handcrack to the top. Stand on the Raven's head and step out right into a shallow dihedral. Climb this to a steep roof. Step right to clip an optional fixed pin and a get a good rest. Step back left and crank out and around the roof to the right onto a slopey ledge. step right again and follow a ramp up and left to a nice ledge. Clip a bolt here and crank some bouldery moves up under a roof to a fixed pin. Follow a right facing corner on thin holds to its end and pull up onto a really nice belay ledge.

P5-(10d): Climb up under the roof and follow it out to its left end where you can turn it into a nice left facing corner. Climb the nice crack up to another roof and turn it up and right to the belay.

P6-(11c): Kevin thought this was the crux. I thought P1 to be harder. this pitch requires some technical foot work. Head up and right on small crimps and small but sticky feet past three bolts and some small gear. Head up into a left facing corner on small features then pull up and right out of it and do a long upward trending right traverse on thin features past 7 fixed pins. Stay on your feet and you'll be happy on this pretty face. From the last pin go pretty much straight up on easier climbing (5.10ish) to the belay at a tree. Watch rope drag on this one.

Protection 

Regular sandias rack plus a good selection of small gear including HB's offsets and alien hybrids. The three smallest offset aliens are really useful. 2-60m ropes.


Photos of Raven Steals the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin sending p6
Kevin sending p6
Marc Ripp coming into the crux section of pitch 4 on Raven Steals the Sun during the second ascent.
Marc Ripp coming into the crux section of pitch 4 ...
Jason Sending P5 on the FA
Jason Sending P5 on the FA
Rough Topo
BETA PHOTO: Rough Topo
Drying out after an intense storm
Drying out after an intense storm
Jason Patton following pitch 4 of RSTS during FA
Jason Patton following pitch 4 of RSTS during FA
JP on P4 a top the raven on the FA
JP on P4 a top the raven on the FA
Jason Patton following pitch 6 of RSTS during FA
Jason Patton following pitch 6 of RSTS during FA

Comments on Raven Steals the Sun Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 18, 2014
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I've done this route twice now. It is very good. Pitches 1 and 4-6 are just about as good as it gets for Sandias climbing. Pitch 1 is the crux for sure and P6 feels a letter grade or two easier. This route is a must do for those climbing at this grade in the Sandias.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree with John's assessment, the route is good. The really good pitches make up for the more typical wanderfests on Pitches 2 and 3. If you can do Pitch 1, Pitch 6 is easy.

Adding some chain to the right piton to equalize the first rap anchor would help.

An enjoyable outing for sure, well done.
By Jason J Patton
May 23, 2009

OK it's not classic....yet but it is for me so 4 stars stays.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Hard to know what of the new crop will turn out to be classics. Lots of great stuff keeps popping up so I guess only time will tell.

Most anybody who takes the time to put up new long routes in the Sandias earns four stars. So much effort.

Great job on this route, particularly managing to link the bottom and top of La Vista into one cohesive route.
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 28, 2009

I'd just like to say although I won't be climbing routes this hard in the 'dias any time soon, I find it inspiring that people are putting up lines like this right in our own back yard. Climb on people!!
By Josh Smith
Jun 14, 2009

Nice route! Kudos to the FA party, and thanks for the hard work on it. On the raps: First rap: we rapped off the tree to the belay at the top of P5 (~140ft). On the second rap, we went all the way to the Living Room ledge with no problem. The pull is easy, and you don't have to do the swing over to the intermediate anchor with the link and the difficult pull. We did leave a draw on that anchor since the pin doesn't have a link. Gear: we didn't have offset aliens (just the regular kind) and the protection seemed just fine.

We didn't take the topo, just the a description and so made a couple of bone-headed route finding decisions (well, I did--can't blame my partner). Directly off the middle of the Living Room Ledge we followed a thin dihedral (tips, maybe 11+) to a blue painted bolt and a pin below a roof. I chickened out without trying the roof since I couldn't see any gear. Anyone know what that route is? Is it finished?
By Jason J Patton
Jun 15, 2009

That's an unfinished proj. Started by Kevin J. Please let us finish it up before you send it. Glad you enjoyed the Raven!
By Josh Smith
Jun 18, 2009

Will, do, Jason--looks like it will be hard. Thanks again for the work on the route. It's a super fun outing.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Kevin, let us know when you finish the new route. It sounds like it could be great fun. It is certainly a striking line. I look forward to trying it when ya'll are done.
By KevJ
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

The New Route has been sent and is called DAISY. We touched up the first pitch of Raven Steals The Sun. There is one really good lost arrow below the crux now. The crux protects great with small wired nuts. Coming to the pitch fresh I was able to detach myself from the first ascent when i did it soo many times. I feel it's 12a. Hope you guys enjoy the new line!
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 18, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Rad climb! The only other one with 3 pitches 11c/harder in the Sandias I can think of is "Promised Land" (which I haven't tried and probably won't). Are there others I'm forgetting? This topo posted by the FA has more detail than the book does, and might help avoid confusion.

When the FA (above comment) says they "touched up the first pitch", that means they removed the 2 pins that previously protected the crux (there are still the lower 3, but the original topo shows 5). There are some good placements, but trying to place the small nuts and TCUs at the crux on lead made this pitch even more challenging. I'll think about pre-placing this gear next time, but I'm not a hardman.

We had some issue finding the top of La Vista on the approach. From the Domingo Baca overlook with the stone wall, follow the ridge-line straight south, scrambling down 2 small cliff bands on the way. When you can't continue any more on this ridge, you're there, look for the tree with a sling on it.

Rap as Josh suggests above (4 160-185' raps with 2x60m ropes; on the 2nd go all the way down to the LR Ledge).