BETA PHOTO: Raven Rock, the route Nevermore (old school 5.9+R)...
Raven Rock is more of a Red River icon than it is a climbing Destination. On countless trips in the 80's and 90's people asked "what is that?" pointing upward, and for years I could not say much more than to give its name. Only years after climbing at the red did I ever climb on it. Many climbers never have. Notably, a few quality moderate lines escaped any ascents until the mid 1990's, but the crag seems, like fortress wall, to have remained primarily a trad wall and has not been bolted up.
The crag faces east and gets morning sun.
The most popular (a measured statement) climb at this cliff is "Nevermore, 5.9+" but there are other lines there that are recommended in the book. Beware, the cliff may lend to more adventure than security. The hanger-less bolts on "Nevermore" were total trash even 15 years ago.
Drive down Hwy 77 through town and through the Nada Tunnel and a few miles more, passing Military Wall and Left Flank to cross an old Iron Bridge. Park at a pull-off there and take your valuables with you. Cross the bridge back on foot and turn off on a river-side trail walking NW toward the obvious cliff in that direction. After a brief and casual walk, the trail will intercept an old rutted out road, more fit for a mountain bike than a car... Follow the road uphill (somewhat strenuous) until a trail leads up and left to the base of the cliff, arriving at the left side.
Climbing Season For the Red River Gorge area.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Raven Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Raven Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Raven Rock:
Nevermore 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Raven Rock
Nevermore 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
: Red River Gorge
: Raven Rock
Nevermore strikes a line up an iconic RRG landmark. For the aspiring 5.9/5.10 adventure trad leader this will test your mettle. Standing on the steel bridge over Red River look west toward an imposing vertical face high above the valley. The top of Nevermore is the left arching crack that can be seen right of center.Nevermore can be climbed in 2-4 pitches depending on your rope length or pitch length preferences.Traditional pitch break up:Pitch 1: Climb a left facing chimney to a ledge. Pitch 2:...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
By T Connor
Oct 20, 2014
The approach was not clear for this one. We ended up hiking up to the Raven Rock parking lot and taking the old road from the start.
By Jacob palmer
Jun 12, 2015
Just went and did this and here's a few things. The RRG guide book tells you to cross back over the steel bridge and follow a trail off to the right along the river. As of 5/22/2015 there is no such trail. We attempted to bushwack through this area where at best there were deer trails, I would not recommend doing this as there is poison ivy and stinging nettle everywhere. The best and easiest option is before crossing the bridge you will see a sign that says ravens rock overlook parking $5. Park on the road just past this sign and hike up the road to the right. Feel free to talk to the guy who lives in the house that you walk right past, he'll share some really cool history about this rock. pass the gate and follow this road all the way up and past some switch backs to get to the base of the climb. Beware, the trail that branches off of the paved road after the switch backs is very hard to spot and pretty much non existent. If you hike all the way to the top, you've gone to far.
By Edward Jakes
Aug 10, 2015
I have jumped this rock several times the second tallest jump int the gorge except eagles nest!!!!! Spent so much time here I really miss the climbing!!! 320 Ft