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Raven Maniac 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR,Dean Brault, Virgil Davis, Jim Scott,Peter Noebels, 2000
Page Views: 2,028
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Jesse Schultz on the epic Raven Maniac.

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Easily one of the best routes on Mount Lemmon. This route doesn't have a move harder than 11+ but it is has 130 feet of overhanging 5.10 and 5.11 climbing which makes is one of the most sustained at the grade on the mountain. The first set of anchors is for a single rope descent. If you stop at the first set of anchors the route is 5.11 or 11+.


    On the Ravens near the top of Mt. Lemmon. It is on Raven B in the chimney between Raven B and Raven C. Descend the east side of the Ravens. See Squeezing the Lemmon II for the approach. The Start is the same as Swing Set 5.11 but takes the left hand bolt line. To get down with one rope (60M) lower to the first set of anchors. Clip in and untie, pull your rope, re-thread, retie your knot, then finish lowering to the ground.


    18 bolts

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    By Jimbo
    May 2, 2007

    In my opinion, one of the best single pitch sport routes I have ever done, anywhere. Steep, long and sustained, it works your brain as much as your arms. If you live in Arizona and climb 5.12 this is a must do.
    By Jimbo
    Sep 12, 2010

    Heard some smack from a punter snow climber today about this route. If you run into him don't listen to his totally unfounded complaints. I mean pick the right hold fer christ's sake and it won't fall off in your hand. Pretty simple strategy I think. Friggin mountaineers.
    By RyanJames
    Mar 23, 2011

    Looks like an amazing climb! I'm definitely going to sample this whenever I go out there next.
    By Jon Ruland
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 26, 2011

    "This route doesn't have a move harder than 11+"

    your words. i can read them but they mean nothing to me.
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Aug 16, 2015

    The fact there isn't a line to do this route every weekend blows my mind. The rock could be a little more sound but the angle makes it safe if you did pop a hold off.
    By Hendrixson
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 19, 2015
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    A classic route by any standard that should be on every 5.12- climber's to-do list.

    The route sees shade starting around noon.
    By Luke Bertelsen
    Oct 23, 2015
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Here's a question..... If this has no move harder than 11+ and Goliath at Enchanted Tower has crux moves that are roughly V4 (5.11-11+) how is this climb rated 12a and Goliath 13a?

    For what it's worth, IMO, in no place other than Lemmon does this get 12a.
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Oct 26, 2015

    Interesting perspective Luke. Last time on RM I thought that it seemed much more sustained than I remembered. Yet, if I compare it to Tsunami it is easier but it is 80 feet longer. 12b could work for me which is still in the 12- range of the + plus - minus system as is 5.12. Funny thing about Goliath is that when I did it the route was rated it 13b and I down rated it to 13- in the gudebook after I redpointed it. What's a letter or two among friends.

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