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Rattletale Wall
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Rattletale 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 7,805
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Jul 14, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 of Rattletale

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure on the Diamond MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike. Has three short, but athletic, pitches.

P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.

P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).

P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.

Rappel from a tree about 20 feet left of the route. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)

Location 

At Rattletale Wall. Belay stations are fixed slings on natural features. Pitches are short and can be linked, one 60m rope is enough for rappelling.

Protection 

A set of nuts and cams, with double or triple hand-size (i.e. #2 and #3 C4 Camalots).


Photos of Rattletale Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nik leading pitch two of Rattletale
Nik leading pitch two of Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa following pitch 2 of Rattletale
Lisa following pitch 2 of Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa leading Pitch 3, RattleTale. This route is ub...
Lisa leading Pitch 3, RattleTale. This route is ub...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattletale P1
Rattletale P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter hand-to-wide-hand crack on Pitch 2 of Rat...
BETA PHOTO: Splitter hand-to-wide-hand crack on Pitch 2 of Rat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fletch on pitch 2 of RattleTale
Fletch on pitch 2 of RattleTale
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattletale P2
Rattletale P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Nik leading pitch two of Rattletale
Nik leading pitch two of Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: stemming P3
stemming P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper half of Pitch 1 of Rattletale.
BETA PHOTO: Upper half of Pitch 1 of Rattletale.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on the second pitch of Rattletale
Ryan on the second pitch of Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter hands on pitch 2.
Splitter hands on pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Will stemming Pitch 3 of Rattletale.
BETA PHOTO: Will stemming Pitch 3 of Rattletale.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony TR'ing the OW/chimney on pitch three of Rattl...
Tony TR'ing the OW/chimney on pitch three of Rattl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Will starting up Pitch 1 of Rattletale. The route ...
BETA PHOTO: Will starting up Pitch 1 of Rattletale. The route ...
Rock Climbing Photo: showing the end of P1 and the splitter crack of P2
showing the end of P1 and the splitter crack of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 of Rattletale (10b).
Pitch 3 of Rattletale (10b).
Rock Climbing Photo: Nik leading pitch two of Rattletale
Nik leading pitch two of Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: Will stemming Pitch 3 of Rattletale.
BETA PHOTO: Will stemming Pitch 3 of Rattletale.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nik leading pitch three of Rattletale
Nik leading pitch three of Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattletale
Rattletale
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony on pitch three of Rattletale
Tony on pitch three of Rattletale

Comments on Rattletale Add Comment
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By dcramer
Jul 14, 2008

Just an FYI: the sizes he refers to are for Camelots.
By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 15, 2008

Thanks, good point, I've updated the description.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Feb 20, 2009

Someone added belay stations at the top of pitches 1 & 2.
By T. Miller
From: MT
Jun 12, 2009

Great route! Cheers to whoever put the P1 and P2 anchors in - not so sure how long the fin/boulder with slings on P1 and the sling covered bush on P2 would have supported the route's well-deserved popularity.
By Colin Bartholomew
From: WASHINGTON
Jun 19, 2010

Thanks for the stations. Uber classic.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 8, 2010

This route is well worth seeking out. P2 is pure, burly crack climbing at its finest. P3 is a fun stemming/crack finish (if you've got any gas left in the tank for overhanging crack, that is.) P2 uses only #2's and #3's(though you can plug a #4 in to protect the exit onto the dirty ledge).
By Douglas T
Jun 5, 2015

There are anchors at the top of the climb. No more need to use the tat on the tree 20 feet back from the climb.
By Zacks
Jun 14, 2016

Super fun, I loved pitch 3! didn't need any tiny cams (nothing smaller than .4 and .5 woulda been fine) rapped from the chains at the top of pitch 3 to top of pitch 1 on a single 70, we still had plenty of rope left, i bet a 60 would make that as well.
By TradladReno
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Jun 30, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Stellar route! The beautiful P2 splitter is literally a baby version of the Enduro Corner pitch on Astroman. The last pitch has 3 different options. 1 is to stem the lower part of the chimney, placing gear in the thin right crack. 2 is to lieback as much of the crack as possible, with some solid jams coming higher. 3, stem up 6 feet and force yourself into the wide crack on the left, battling and struggling your way up the steep off width as burly as any I've ever climbed before (this way is more advisable after first establishing a TR). Either way, this route rocks. Go do it. Do it.

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