This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike. Has three short, but athletic, pitches.
P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.
P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).
P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.
Rappel from a tree about 20 feet left of the route. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)
At Rattletale Wall. Belay stations are fixed slings on natural features. Pitches are short and can be linked, one 60m rope is enough for rappelling.
A set of nuts and cams, with double or triple hand-size (i.e. #2 and #3 C4 Camalots).
Jul 14, 2008
Just an FYI: the sizes he refers to are for Camelots.
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Jul 15, 2008
Thanks, good point, I've updated the description.
From: Las Vegas
Feb 20, 2009
Someone added belay stations at the top of pitches 1 & 2.
|By TM Miller|
Jun 12, 2009
Great route! Cheers to whoever put the P1 and P2 anchors in - not so sure how long the fin/boulder with slings on P1 and the sling covered bush on P2 would have supported the route's well-deserved popularity.
|By Colin Bartholomew|
Jun 19, 2010
Thanks for the stations. Uber classic.
|By Sherri Lewis|
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 8, 2010
This route is well worth seeking out. P2 is pure, burly crack climbing at its finest. P3 is a fun stemming/crack finish (if you've got any gas left in the tank for overhanging crack, that is.) P2 uses only #2's and #3's(though you can plug a #4 in to protect the exit onto the dirty ledge).