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Old New Place
Routes Sorted
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4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,956
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Good jams above the smeary crux of the route. June...

Description 

Rattlesnake Crack is a White Rock classic.
The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but the gear is solid. Difficulty has been variably rated from 5.11a to 5.11c in different sources.

Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and move up (crux). You're through the crux when you gain a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieback up the steep finger crack to a stance on the prow. The crack continues as hands, then thins to fingers as the rock takes on the pocketed character of White Rock basalt.

A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is 5.12, with not much for pro, if any.


Location 

You can identify this route from above by looking for the big flat rock at its base.
From below, the clean face with the left-trending undercling traverse is apparent. It's also the next climb to the right of S Crack, the obvious S-shaped crack.


Protection 

Nuts: 1 set, including RPs
Cams: 1 ea. from TCUs to #2 camalot, with doubles of #0.75 camalot and #0.5 camalot recommended.

2-bolt anchor.

It's not a great route for toproping, because falls at the crux leave the climber dangling and unable to reestablish on the rock.



Photos of Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) Slideshow Add Photo
J.O. topping out on Rattlesnake Crack.
J.O. topping out on Rattlesnake Crack.
Johnny O. working up Snake Flake past the crux.
Johnny O. working up Snake Flake past the crux.
Comments on Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 6, 2008

One of the coolest routes I've been on and a must do if at the Old New Place. Intriguing and challenging crux to a "thank god" hold; then a very fun crack from there on. Books I've seen rate this as "sandbagged 5.11b/c" for which I concur...with the sandbagged part.

One more thing: while it's true that when toproping this route it is difficult/impossible to get back on at the crux, one just needs to keep swinging and lower a couple feet to the large undercling. Granted, this doesn't allow for a complete hang-dog ascent because to move up you have to pull the moves - but that's why you're on it, right?

By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Mar 6, 2010

The seam on the face to the left of this climb hosts a good 5.12 TR variation to the normal start. When combined with Gulf stream it makes for a more sustained climb.