Rattlesnake Buttress Rock Climbing
Water chute on the approach to Rattlesnake Buttres...
A smooth gray face at the top of Rattlesnake Canyon. Taken for Granite
(5.8-) and 200 Motels
(5.8-) are visible from the car, both are super.
Hike up Rattlesnake Canyon 20-30 minutes until the canyon turns right, directly below the crag. Continue in the wash a bit, then scramble back up and left to the right end of the crag, near Test Pilot. (There is a steep drop off just below the main buttress.)
Weather station 5.9 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rattlesnake Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rattlesnake Buttress:
200 Motels 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Eureka! 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Featured Route For Rattlesnake Buttress
Taken for Granite 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Rattlesnake Buttress
This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Rattlesnake Buttress is on the lft in the shade.
The same view with better lighting
BETA PHOTO: Red= Taken for Granite Blue= 200 Motels Green= Bac...
A view of Rattlesnake Canyon from the base of Ratt...
BETA PHOTO: Rattlesnake Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Another shot looking North towards 62/29 Palms hig...
Rattlesnake Buttress on the left, Dune on the righ...
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 4, 2004
A bit more approach beta: This buttress and its outstanding cracks are visible from many points in Indian Cove. It appears as a blank face with a set of two cracks, reminiscent of the "K cracks" of Pingora fame. The approach hike takes approximately 35-45 minutes from the Day Use Area and trailhead for Rattlesnake canyon. The approach is the crux of these climbs. Scramble up wash, past slickrock slabs, potholes, pools, and narrows to the main part of this wild, spectacular canyon. After some time walking through the wide sandy canyon above the slickrock and narrows below, arrive at a distinct, house-sized boulder (on your left) with a detached flake in front of it. At this point, leave the main canyon bearing left, up a faint gully, staying right of the buttress. At this point Rattlesnake Buttress will appear to be above and slightly to your left. Follow your nose through the boulders, keeping your eyes peeled for cairns.The approach is somewhat tedious, but your persistence will be rewarded. Careful cairn-following leads to the base of both Taken for Granite and 200 Motels.
Mar 6, 2012
There are now cairns leading the way from the wash to the face. Brutal approach but beautiful climbing. Bring snacks!
Dec 28, 2012
I've been on way worse approaches, for JT standards it is a bit much I guess, but still worth it.
By Phil Esra
Jan 2, 2014
Vogel's green "Classics" guidebook has helpful pics of the approach. Allow plenty of time. As of 1-1-14, the final scramble is very well cairned except maybe for the first couple of boulders exiting the main wash. This exit happens maybe 10-20 yards before the wash jogs right. Good luck and have fun.