Rattler C3
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| Type: | Aid |
| FA: | Keith Lober |
| Submitted By: | paco on Dec 30, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Owls West face routes.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Located just down and to the right of Anaconda- the inital roof and crux of Rattler is quite rotten. However, the route as a whole is so stellar that I had to give it three stars. Since [you're] right off the ground the crux is a bit dangerous whether trying it clean or with stacked pins. Yikes! After the crux work your way up to the anchor linking steep thin cracks. And the 2nd pitch just before the anchor you end up aiding this amazing steep arete with nothing but air around you. Check this out!
Note: possible ground fall from rotten crux
Protection 5.8 C3 bring a standard clean aid rack with two of each cam from 00 TCUs to #3 Camalots, double set of stoppers, some RPs, slider nuts, tri cams and extra TCUs. The 1st belay has a nice new bolt and some other stuff. the next and last anchor is a strange fix of nuts and tricams that tend to come loose quite easily. Use your #2 and 3 Camalots here instead!
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 2, 2002
| Has this really been done clean? I rope soloed it years ago and thought pins were the only way to go in the roof. What clean gear did you use? Bravo, by the way. -SL |
By paco
Jan 6, 2002
| I swear I'm telling the truth! A yellow TCU was the only thing I could get to stick in the first pin scar in the roof. Only two cams were touching the rock, and as soon as I reached out and placed the next TCU, the yellow blew out. Just about messed my britches. P.S.- I've only seen em in the mags, but those new "2 cams" from Splitter Gear might work here also?? |
By Stiles
From: the mountains
Feb 14, 2005
| This climb (and every other aid climb on the Owls) goes clean. The rotten rock will not take much nailing; once one maniac does it sans hammer, EVERYONE should. Take a lot of small cams and nuts... and a book for the belays...and maybe a crash pad.... |
By Jim C.
From: Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2009
| Does anyone know if the fixed gear on pitch 2 is supposed to be anything besides that large angle right off the belay and the fat aluminum head a bit higher up? (See picture - the fixed head is visible where the crack jogs right.) I didn't climb this section, but sending it clean looked harder than the "crux" on P1. |
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