Rattle and Scream
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Jim Bodenhamer enjoying the day out.
The route is to the right of Snakes For Snacks. Start up on the platform on the right side of the wall. Like the rest of the wall, the route is full of sustained crimps, edges, and smears. A nice warm up and introduction to the Red Slab. The second bolt is a little bit up there, so it's not a good route for newbie leaders.
5 bolts + 2 bolts with Fixe rings for the anchor.
|Comments on Rattle and Scream
|By Joshua Lewis|
Sep 29, 2002
Yesterday was the closest I've ever come to killing a friend--on this route.
Whew, here goes....just above the 4th bolt, maybe about 45' off the deck, I was moving up and left on a chalked, crimpy seam layback block (which seemed totally solid) and reaching high and left for a sloper when the entire damn thing came right off. It seemed to happen in slow motion, but me and this 50-70 lb rock just peeled and fell together for about 15' when I was caught by a head's up belayer but the boulder continued down. In addition to my belayer, a friend was sitting with his back to the wall right at the bottom of the route. Before anyone comprehended what was happening, this thing just barely grazed said friend's left wrist and knee before exploding on the ground right between the both of them. Literally 1-2 feet from smashing his head. He ended up with some small cuts on the wrist and a bruise on the knee.
After hanging there in disbelief for about 5 minutes, I found that the climb is still about 10a, by moving right of the 4-5 bolts now.
I guess the moral of the story is no matter how many times you've climbed a crag/route its never truly bulletproof, and everyone needs to stay clear of the bottom...and wear a helmet, although in this case, Tom would've been in deep trouble either way if someone up stairs wasn't looking out for him. Damn.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 17, 2003
There are still loose flakes above bolt 5. One moved in Jim's hand and another flexed in mine, hence the name? The anchors are impossible to see while climbing. They like just up and R of bolt 5, before the heavily lichened rock. Interestin' addition, devious, slightly squeezed.
|By Nate Oakes|
May 15, 2006
Couldn't see the bolts when I tried this one, and ended up coming down on someone else's bail 'biner off bolt 5. Sounds like a common problem.
|By Tom Pierce|
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 7, 2006
I climbed this recently and unlike some really liked it; interesting moves and I had no problem locating bolts or anchors. It's a bit more generously bolted than other run out Red Slab climbs, if that's any consolation. I thought the rock quality was OK, but there was one dark rock very near the anchors that was cracked and might be unstable. I was able to climb and anchor without using it but beware.
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2006
Be careful clipping the second bolt as a fall from here would probably land you on the deck. Be solid on 5.10. I felt Snakes to the left was easier - of course my partner thought the opposite? You can't see the chains until you are above the 5th bolt, I went up and left and then back right to the chains.
|By Dustin Scow|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2011
I climbed this on 05/12/2011. I did not see any lose blocks or flakes, but I am glad to know this is something to look out for in the future. I thought this climb was a little harder than Lounge Lizard two routes to the left which is rated a 10b/c. My partner also thought the same thing from a toprope perspective. I felt like it was much harder than some 5.10d's I've done just across the road at Lil Eiger. Just my opinion, but take it for what it's worth. I had to climb up about 5-8 feet and tippy toe to see the anchors which are slightly right and tucked in behind a rock. Definitely a fun route, I would recommend it, but be careful on the first and second bolts (a fall here would not be fun).
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2013
Climbed this yesterday and didn't find anything loose; I think it's all cleaned up at this point. The climbing to the third bolt isn't bad so the spacing is fine, IMO, just not a good lead for someone starting to break into the .10s. Took a whip at the crux - definitely harder than .10a getting established on the smooth, sloping ramp to make the clip. But all in all a really fun route.